tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-27395146649429646872024-03-13T09:06:40.171-07:00HawgFuelSeattle area cycling and hiking enthusiast blogging and photographing personal biking and hiking adventures in the Pacific Northwest and when I'm lucky sometimes beyond.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.comBlogger50125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-51543140543225726442018-12-31T14:36:00.000-08:002018-12-31T14:41:18.472-08:00The big 5 Oh<p>
I recall in my mid 40's thinking about what I might do to celebrate my 50th birthday, or at least some goal to set and achieve in my 50th year. Some big hairy goal to show myself and anyone witnessing that 50 is in fact just a number as the cliche goes and that I'm not dead yet! <a href="https://www.ridetherockies.com/">Ride the rockies</a> was one event I thought of. Six days of riding through the Colorado Rockies ought to do it. Then as 50 started approaching reality I thought maybe I'll just do the STP again. I hadn't ridden that event in 8 years and it was quite fun riding with 10,000 of your best cycling friends for the weekend even if it is the easiest 200 miles you'll ever ride.
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But as my 50th approached I wasn't feeling that fit. I was feeling fat and old and slow. I was often out of breath on bike routes I've ridden many times in the past at noticeably slower average speeds. I was older. I was heavier. But should I really be this slower? Should I really be this out of breath on this old standard bike route? I was in between jobs during the winter and set out for a modest 30 mile ride with my friend Mike. It was a cold day and a little snow and ice on the road and I chose to ride my gravel bike. Just after 10 miles into the ride I was having a tough time keeping up with Mike on the climbs. The climbs were modest and our pace was too. Mike kept looking back at me with a quizzical expression on his face as if to say 'are you hungover bro or what?'. I had been doing 30 mile rides a couple times a week for a couple months prior so I was a bit perplexed too. But it was below freezing and I had been experiencing what I thought were asthma symptoms for the previous 6 months. I visited my primary care doctor. He said he couldn't diagnose my respiratory issue as asthma but agreed I did have a respiratory issue and gave me a reference to an asthma specialist and a prescription for an inhaler. Time past and the respiratory issue that brought me to the doctor subsided or waned and I dismissed it as something to do with age and seasonal allergies. But the day I rode with Mike I had to walk up the hill to my house. What I should have told myself was I only walk that hill when I'm sick. Instead I dismissed it as an asthma issue caused by the cold. The asthma issue I was never diagnosed.
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I started another contract at the big software company across Lake Washington in the spring and returned to one of my favorite bicycle work commutes. The 520 pedestrian lane was open on the new bridge and I was able to ride 15 miles door to door with only 3 miles being on the road shared with cars. Ellie and I started giving a shit about our diet and with increasing weekly miles on my bike commute I lost 12 pounds and started feeling good on the bike. My average speeds were too slow to consider riding with friends I had raced cyclocross a few years earlier but I got out for a couple rides with friends. At this point my bicycle goal at 50 was to get out for some group rides which I had not done in a couple years. The same goal I had for a couple years.
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That summer Ellie and I only got out for a single hike on Tiger Mountain. Let me clarify. That was the only hike that summer, and it was on Tiger Mountain. There were a lot of excuses. A health scare of a family member. A sick cat who needed to be at the vet a couple weekends. A couple weekends it was in the 90's and we didn't want to hike. A couple more weekends the wild fires made the air too thick and unhealthy. But with all the excuses I wasn't doing much to say 'hey lets go do this hike' or that hike. I had tough time on that one hike on Tiger. I had a tough time breathing and I wasn't looking forward to it again. I was 50. I was getting old.
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In August I had completed going to the gym on a weekly basis for an entire year and I injured my foot over doing it in a squat workout. Typical. My ambition often exceeded my body's capacity to keep up with it. I was off the bike for a couple weeks but got back on in September without feeling like I lost too much fitness. In October I got out for a 35 mile bike ride. It was one of those summery fall days that you feel fortunate to be biking as those nice weather days are disappearing before your eyes with November approaching in the PNW. I set out and rode my Mercer Island loop solo. I felt great. It was one of the longer rides I did in months and I felt like I turned a corner on my fitness.
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On Monday on my bike and bus commute to work I felt gassed. Maybe I don't recover as well at 50. Saturday was a great day on the bike. Not up to the average speeds I used to ride, but what glorious sunny few hours on the bike.
I had to walk up the hill to my house on my bike commute home Tuesday. I didn't feel sick, but I wasn't breathing well exercising again. I drove to work the rest of the week. Get some rest. Could be over doing it. A little rest is exactly what I need. This weekend is supposed to be another great weather weekend. I want to get out for the Thrilla loop in Woodinville. This could be the last great weather weekend of the year.
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Sunday morning I drove out to Woodinville for the Thrilla loop. Roughly 20 miles of gravel, dirt paths and 4 miles of paved trail. I typically ride it in an hour and a half and stop at a brewery for a bite and beer afterwards. I rode the paved path to the beginning of the gravel trail that ascends into the Redmond water shed. The first hill is short and punchy over a handful of water bars. It is the first hill and wakes up the lungs quick. I clear the water bars and get to the approach of the next hill that I often don't clear because I can't maintain traction on the steep spot and walk the last bit to the traffic light. It is a gradual ascent to the second punchy but short climb. I usually catch my breath and anticipate the next climb pumping myself up to clear the loose gravel climb. But I don't catch my breath. I keep breathing hard despite the lesser more gradual climb and I stop. I won't clear that next climb this winded. I'll stop and go again. I walk instead and I'm still breathing heavy at the top of the hill at the road crossing. I consider turning back. Something isn't right. I haven't ridden this loop in a few weeks but I shouldn't be this out of breath. I just did a longer ride the previous weekend.
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I catch my breath at the road crossing. The light changes and I cross the road to the next short but steep climb, but I get a third of the way up before I'm breathing like I'm nearing the end of a cyclocross race. The bellows that is my rib cage contracting and expanding over and over again after just 50 feet. I decide to stop, catch my breath and turn around. It takes longer to catch my breath than I expect. On the 4 miles back to my car on the flat paved bike path I still feel more winded than I should. I get back to my car, pack up and stop for my post ride beer without the glow of finishing my ride.
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Monday morning I wake up. I consider my last week of problems breathing. I notice my right lower leg feels swollen. I've experienced this before. I know I'm at a higher risk for blood clotting than the average bear. I call my doctor to see if I can setup up an appointment. The nurse asks my symptoms and recommends I go straight to the emergency room. I shower. I feed the cats. I was nearly finished washing the dishes when I thought it might be a better idea to go to the hospital than to die of a pulmonary embolism there in the kitchen with a rack of clean dishes. I call a Lyft driver and go to the hospital.
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I check into the ER. I explain my symptoms. I follow a nurse to my ER room. They measure my pulse, blood pressure, give me an EKG, chest x-ray, an ultrasound and I think an MRI. I feel like an Indy 500 race car in the pits. I know that this could be deep vain thrombosis and or a pulmonary embolism but think it will just be asthma and a strained calf. I had a DVT 6 years earlier and it hurt much worse than what was going on with my right calf. A few minutes after my Indy 500 pit stop the doctor returned to my room and told me it was a good thing I came to the ER that day because I had a DVT throughout my entire leg and I had multiple pulmonary embolisms. I asked how many PEs. She said they are too small and too many to count, but the good news is that your resting oxygen levels are healthy, so your body is compensating for the blood clots in your lungs. She continued that it is likely because of your fitness level that you body is able to deal with these blood clots as well as it is.
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A few days later after spending the night in the hospital for observation I visit my primary care provider. He doesn't have much to say other than "you're lucky to be alive". I nod in agreement. I know the statistics. 10 to 30% of patients diagnosed with a DVT die of sudden death within 3 months. 25% of people diagnosed with a pulmonary embolism die of sudden death. Three months later I feel like I dodged a bullet. It is New Years Eve. Every moment with Ellie, my family and friends feels more special. Even the minutiae. Especially the minutiae. Just spending time with them brings joy without seeking some physical challenge that somehow brings more meaning to my life. I aspire to be a better person in those moments. To listen and be more present. I'm still want to return to group rides. I still want to enter a grand fondo or two or 10 every year if I can. But I think I may be at a turning point with such big hair goals. A turn that may be towards more cerebral and creative endeavors. There can be big hairy cerebral and creative goals and I can enjoy the little things too.
</p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-33950922985251174262016-07-24T15:32:00.000-07:002016-07-24T15:32:11.514-07:00Three nights in Old Havana<p>
For the next three nights we stayed at a lovely stoically furnished three bedroom apartment we rented via <a href="https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/6512108">air bnb</a>. Just two blocks south of Obispo street and the statue of Francisco de Albear, we were able to walk by the statue of Jose Marti in Parque Central, weave our way to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (Arte Cubano), along the Paseo de Marti onto the Malecon. From Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta we would complete the loop along the Malecon past Castillo de la Real Fuerz, Plaza de San Francisco de Assis and back and nearly everywhere in between before we left for Cienfuegos.
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In 1996 over the course of 7 days Ry Cooder and Nick Gold recorded <a href="http://www.buenavistasocialclub.com/" target="_blank">The Buenovista Social club</a> for World Circuit Records. The recording featured many of the great musicians from Cuba's golden age of music from the 1950's. I remember when the record was released, and I saw them play at the Showbox in Seattle as well as purchasing a solo release later by Ibrahim Ferrer. So after walking down Obispo it appeared to be welcome transition from our cab ride to see that a former member of the Buenovista Social club was performing at bar just a short walk from our apartment. The bar had open air walls and the music spilled onto Obispo. We took a seat at a table near the band and ordered drinks. There may have been a small entree fee, but I can't recall. The band did stop and walk a hat around the bar for tips, sold cd's and photo opps with the band leader. The music was good and we recognized a few of the songs. They would be playing there the next three days we stayed in Havana. The band appeared to be taking a break, the drinks were weak and we left to explore Obispo street.
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We strolled down the street towards the Plaza de Armas stopping along the way for Cuba libres and Pina Coladas. After a couple drinks we began considering where to eat diner. Every restaurant has a salesman in the street selling passersby on the idea of entering their establishment. We discovered the privately owned restaurants (paladars) with Trip Advisor recommended signs were our best bet as well as recommendations from our Lonely Planet Cuba book. We ended up eating at a little second floor paladar near Aguacate. There was a band and tables on a small open air patio overlooking the street below. The band was good as was nearly every band we saw while in Cuba. The band members appeared to be in their early 20's and they played some modern regional music as well as the popular older Cuban music. Their blender was busy but I stayed with the Bucaneros. They offered pizza and traditional food. After we returned to our apartment we would hear the sounds of music and people in the streets until 3 am with a brief respite before the sound of roosters and construction would greet the day.
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The next day we walked to Fuerio Jacqueline for breakfast. There didn't appear to be many places serving breakfast but Jacqueline's was very good and close to the Museo National de Bellas Artes we visited after a couple delicious cafe con leches. The National Museum was a short walk away but we wove through the streets taking photos on our way. I highly recommend visiting the Museo National de Bellas Artes but before your visit read a little bit of Cuba's history or at least the bit Lonely Planet's Cuba book covers. Retail isn't in Cuba isn't like it is in the States. We weren't encourage to take a tour when we payed to enter the museum and when we asked one of the attendants if there was a tour they said there wasn't despite seeing one moments later and one forming as we left. Possibly something lost in translation. We didn't speak Spanish so we may have missed some obvious signage. After walking through some of the galleries it became apparent that a little more knowledge of Cuban history would have been beneficial, but for this visit the imagery in the art was part of my education on the topic. The artwork represented different eras including many female artists and despite our lack of historic knowledge an image is worth a 1000 words and we were inspired to read the summarized history in our Cuba book.
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After our visit to the musuem we made our way to the Malecon and walked east towards the Plaza de Armas and the Nao Paladar where we would eat diner. Nao was recommended in our travel guide, but we weren't actually seeking it. We just happened to cross the street while walking along the Malecon and took an alley where we heard live music. The band consisted of five musicians performing the popular Cuban music of the 50's just outside the entrance to the restaurant. There were tables in the alley outside the restaurant and there was a table of German tourists enjoying the fun and vibrant performance of the band. Perfect stop for Cuba libres and Pina Coladas. We stayed for the octopus and a couple drinks. The band became one of my favorites and all the patrons enjoyed the show as well as a few people walking through the narrow walkway between, through and around the band.
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We made our way back to the neighborhood we were staying and had a late night diner at El Patchanka. It was a paradar just a few blocks south of our apartment on Bernaza. It was a small well lit restaurant part nautical themed art and written graffiti on the walls making it a funky fun dive bar with good inexpensive food and good cheap drinks. We had the lobster enchiladas. Not so much enchiladas but lobsters on rice and beans with pico de galo. Delish and only $9. It was a warm night, the front of the establishment was open to the street and a slight breeze kept us cool. An elderly gentleman in a suit carrying a guitar set up next to the bar. The little old man wasn't more than 5 foot tall but sang and played some great old tunes with another musician accompanying him on accordion. He was very interactive and animated and I suspect this was his last impromptu show after a long day of performing and a fair amount of hydrating with local beverages. The place had a great energy and it was a good way to end our day.
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We woke to the sound of roosters, construction and the sight of sunshine again and just like every day we went for a walk. We walked to a hotel by Parque Central where we had breakfast, purchased an internet card, checked in on the cats and said hello to our parents via email. We exchanged currency at a bank next door and made arrangements for a walking tour of the historic squares in old Havana and bus tickets for Cienfuegos the next day. We began our walking tour of the squares in a van at the hotel. There were two guides for two small groups of people. Our guide spoke English very well and we were able to ask a number of questions in addition to getting the guided tour script. We stopped at the Plaza de Revolucion, Plaza de Armas, Plaza de San Francisco Asis ending by La Bodeguita del Medio just outside of Plaza Vieja.
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That night we ate diner at O'Reilly 304 named after the restaurant's address. We really enjoyed the atmosphere and the food. They served food we would die for in Seattle and Seattle is known to have some pretty good restaurants. There was quite bit of seafood, imaginative dishes with a local influence but not traditional Cuban food. They also made fantastic drinks. Mohito with watermelon, fresh mint, vine circling the straw and glass and a server with the good sense to serve us 7 year rum straight and not in the mohito we asked it to be in. We were a little confused when we received the two drinks but soon realized we should have been sipping 7 year maestro rum all this time. This was our favorite dining experience, the most expensive but we also greatly enjoyed over indulging on their fantastic food and drinks. The owner was a friendly young man we watched running across the street to another restaurant carrying fresh ingredients there and back again. He stopped at our table and we chatted about our dining experience, the great mohitos and interior night photography. Put some stars, smiley faces and circle this one in your guide book.
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When we left O'Reilly 304 the small establishment was packed with people waiting to get a table, and we felt fortunate to score a table upon entering. We wandered through old Havana, got one more drink where we ate the first night and returned to our apartment. We absolutely loved Old Havana and prepared for our bus ride to Cienfuegos the next day.
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Photos of our visit in Havana Cuba can be seen at <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/hawgfuel/albums/72157663149353054" target="_blank">Hawgfuel on flickr</a>.
</p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-37522942293204960132016-06-18T17:52:00.002-07:002016-07-24T15:27:05.724-07:00Valle de Vinales, Cuba
The next day Yoel was available to drive us to Vinales. We had made plans the night before; the same way many plans are made in Cuba with no internet or cell coverage, these plans were made old school, in person, face to face. We enjoyed the two hour drive in Yoel’s 1953 Chevy along the country side. Yoel spoke good English and we enjoyed our conversations about Cuba. Much of our conversations were questions about Cuba as we knew very little despite being very interested in the culture. The smell of petrol that was so strong in Old Havana lessened as we departed the city as did it’s taste in my mouth. The highway to Vinales was a six lane divided highway. The three lanes heading towards Vinales was being used for a triathalon that day. I was surprised and pleased to see athletes on modern racing bikes as we past. Because of the triathalon, car traffic was using the three eastern bound lanes. Traveling west we used the far right lane, east bound traffic used the far left lane and we shared the middle lane to pass. Modern cars and buses, vintage 1950’s American cars and buses long forgotten in America, small Chinese death traps, horseback riders and horse drawn carriages shared these three lanes traveling at very different rates of speed. This took a little getting used to but Yoel was great and I didn’t give it much thought until we returned to Havana from Vinales with a nightmare taxi driver.
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We arrived at the visitor center atop the hill and could view the road descend into the valley where farms and the town of Vinales could be seen. As we approached the casa particular we weren’t quite sure it was the same home we saw in the photos on airbnb. Yoel may have sensed our hesitation as we approached our weekend home and offered to help with our bags and wait until we were certain this was the place. We were welcomed by our host, a white hair cheerful and sweet grandmother and owner of the casa particular. The room looked exactly as it did on the <a href="https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/6722483" target="_blank">airbnb site</a>, and we were certain we were in the right house. The hosts’ home was a modest ranch style house with small rooms. Our room was a small an individual building the size of a hotel room and bathroom with a balcony and small Jacuzzi size pool just off the patio behind the house. On the other side of the patio there were workers building a second concrete studio. The first room must be a success. It certainly was for us. We were offered a couple of the most delicious Piña coladas complimentary of the house. So good we bought two more. We at at Balcon de Valle, a small restaurant within walking distance of our casa particular and the visitor's center. The restaurant provides outdoor seating and traditional Cuban food. There are 3 decks overlooking the valley offering a spectacular view. There was no menu, just the option of pork or chicken. It was traditional plate of the meat, rice and beans and salad consisting of cucumbers, tomatoes and onions with oil and vinegar. This was my favorite traditional chicken dinner I had our entire stay. This chicken tasted like chicken and may have been the best chicken I ever had.
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It was a nice 3 km walk along a country road to Vinales. Nearly 90 percent of what we saw along the road were farms with occasional restaurant or home. There wasn’t much traffic on the road. We periodically saw a taxi or tour bus drive by and an occasional horse and buggy. In town in front of the handful of local tourism shops we met Poopi, a young man in his mid 20’s who said he was able to provide taxis and various tours of Vinales. We decided to follow him to begin a horseback riding tour of the area which included a stop at a tobacco farm. Poopi wasn’t affiliated with any of the tour groups he was standing in front of when we met him, but he seemed genuine, experienced and spoke good English. We walked a little over a half mile to a home with a few horses. We met our guide and said good bye to Poopi. Ellie rode Fletcher and I rode Pepe. This was my first time horseback riding. Pepe seemed easy to steer and he listened to our guide when needed.
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The three of us circled the valley on our horses. We started on small roads and then the remaining 90% of our ride was on rustic dirt roads. There were a few locations the dirt roads became thick with mud and water. The horses didn't like walking through these areas but they carried us through with our guides instruction. Riding horseback through the valley was very serene. We saw very few other people on our way. We had a view of Viñales Mural de la Prehistoria by Leovigildo Gonzales Morillo as we entered an area that appeared to be primarily farmland. After a couple hours we approached the tobacco farm our guide had planned for us to visit. There was a couple who arrived when we did who were from Sweden. The tobacco farmer explained the growing and drying process of the tobacco leaf and explained how 90% of the tobacco was sold to the government and the remaining tobacco the farmers rolled cigars and sold locally. The farmer cigars were aged naturally and I was lucky to have the opportunity to smoke one as we sat and listened to the farmer. The cigar was exceptional. Very smooth and flavorful. Quite the treat, however I didn't buy any to take home, but if you enjoy smoking cigars, I highly recommend buying farmer cigars from Vinales if you visit Cuba.
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<p style="text-align:center; width:90%;font-size:smaller;margin:auto;margin-top:-15px">Me smoking the farmers cigar. Wearing long sleeve shirt as I forgot and could not find sunscreen for the first few days.</p>
<p>It was a hot day in the low 80's and mostly sunny. We forgot sunscreen and were unable to find any the first couple days. Retail in Cuba is in short supply and sunscreen is something only tourists would purchase. So I wore a long sleeve pullover in an attempt to not get sun burn. It worked. Somehow I was in the sun all day and my cheap Cuba tourist hat and long sleeves kept me from turning lobster red. It was a gorgeous day and the farmland scenery coupled with the unusual small rectangular mountains found in the valley made for a beautiful landscape to travel by horse. We continued our loop of the valley after visiting the tobacco farm and just as town came into view we were pleasantly surprised to stop at a small outdoor bar! Ellie and I both had drinks that were fresh coconuts cut open with rum and honey added. A very delicious beverage indeed. At that point were were only another 15 minutes from town. We thanked and tipped our guide and said farewell and returned to the nice little restaurant where we found cuba libres and Piña coladas earlier that day.</p>
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We had a couple drinks and walked up the hill out of town to our casa particular. Our super sweet smiling host cooked a fantastic traditional Cuban chicken dinner. It was much like the chicken dinner at the restaurant the night before but with many more sides. It was delicious and too much food for the two of us to finish as we experienced when eating at any of our casa particulars in Cuba. The next day we walked back to town to find a cab where we met Poopi the day before. In hind sight we should have asked the host of our casa particular to call a trusted cab driver and pick us up at the house, which is how we arranged finding a cab every time afterwards. Our cab driver did not speak any English and we only knew a few words of Spanish but we found someone to translate. We headed back to the casa particular, picked up our luggage, paid for our food and drinks and said goodbye to our host. It was a terrible drive back to Havana. Terrible driver in general. The driver fell asleep and side swipped a passing car, nearly ran out of gas when we entered Havana and didn't pick a bag out of the trunk when we arrived at our next casa particular. But we did arrive at our next casa particular safe and sound. The journey took two more hours than expected and we were a little on edge after the experience, but now it was time for three nights in Havana!
<p>
Photos of our visit in Havana Cuba can be seen at <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/hawgfuel/albums/72157663149353054" target="_blank">Hawgfuel on flickr</a>.
</p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-73305234397134118592016-05-15T16:33:00.000-07:002016-05-15T16:38:21.705-07:00Cuba a cultural adventure.In February we traveled to Cuba. We first flew to Cancun and purchased a Cuban visa at the airport and awaited our flight via Interjet.
The flight from Cancun to Havana was was full of excited and experienced travelers. Many talking to one another about past adventures and their plans in Cuba, many armed with the <a href="https://www.lonelyplanet.com/cuba">Lonely Planet Cuba</a> book as we were. The few travelers we spoke to had stories of other rustic third world cultural adventures. Like many Americans the imagery, the culture and the history of Cuba always captured my imagination. Like Peru, Cuba was one of those places I felt inspired to visit and with the improving U.S. Cuban relations we felt it was a good time to make the trip. The flight time was about an hour and a half and there were few lights seen below as we landed at the Havana airport.
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Valentina from our casa particular and our driver Yoel picked us up at the airport. It was fairly quick and easy to walk through customs and find Valentina among the receptive crowd as we exited the terminal. We walked across the small parking lot, in what felt like a summer evening with the red sky disappearing along the horizon. Yoel is a driver of one of the 4000 vintage refurbished pre 1960 American cars that are working taxis in Havana. We talked to Yoel and Valentina as Yoel drove from the airport to our casa particular. We know very little Spanish, Valentina knew very little English, but Yoel spoke English well and was a good interpreter for the rest of us.
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The three bedroom apartment we rented in Old Havana was much more charming inside than outside. Like many homes in Old Havana they possess the beauty of their antiquity and a sadness of their poverty and lack of upkeep. The lack of upkeep of course is due to the <a cuba-embargo.procon.org="" href="https://www.blogger.com/%E2%80%9D" http:="">U.S. embargo against Cuba</a> signed by President Kennedy in 1962, and from that point in time many things in Cuba stood still as a snapshot of what was and decayed with time. We booked this 3 bedroom <a href="https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/5891139">casa particular</a> via <a href="https://www.airbnb.com/">airbnb</a> as we did with every place we stayed in Cuba. These casa particulars are part of the economic reforms implemented in 2008 where Cubans were permitted to run small private businesses, and it is these small businesses that offer some of the best places to stay and dine in Cuba. At a casa particular one receives an authentic experience in a Cuban home. The owner often lives in the home or nearby as in the case of this one and they often provide delicious meals upon request as well as some great insight into places of interest and travel.
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Our apartment for the night was on the second floor and had so much charm and character we began photographing the apartment shortly after our host and driver left. It was a three bedroom apartment with two bathrooms a living room and balcony. We set out around 8:30 to explore the neighborhood. If you knew nothing of Havana and were dropped in the middle of this neighborhood you might think this was a rough part of town, but we were assured by our host that it was safe to walk about without worrying about any ‘bad parts’ in the area. We didn’t look at our city map and had two options to begin, left or right. We went right. In hindsight going left would have taken us to a more touristy section, but we did find the mile walk interesting as we circled a few blocks before deciding to eat basically 2 blocks from our casa particular. Restaurante Puerto de Sagua wasn’t fancy as a couple of restaurants we passed but it appeared to be offer more than the few taco or pizza counters we saw. The restaurant specialize in seafood, which we ordered as well as a couple local beers. Restaurante Puerto de Sagua is listed in our Lonely Planet Cuban book, but I would not recommend it. Decent food at a decent price but not special. After dinner we returned to our apartment to prepare for our trip to Vinales the next day. We would return to Havana for three days after visiting Vinales and for a night after visiting Cienfuegos and Trinidad before returning to Cancun.
<p>
Photos of our visit in Havana Cuba can be seen at <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/hawgfuel/albums/72157663149353054" target="_blank">Hawgfuel on flickr</a>.
</p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-13824121000276968732014-10-11T14:53:00.001-07:002014-11-20T14:36:05.431-08:00Goat Rocks Wilderness - Snowgrass Flats, Old Snowy, PCT<p>
This past labor day weekend we headed down south of Mount Rainier and south of Packwood and visited a familiar and favorite Washington trail in the Goat Rocks Wilderness within the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. This area is a real gem in the Washington Cascade mountains. This was a fourth backpacking visit and each time we do it a little different as there are a number of trail options for exploring when spending two or more nights in the area.
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<p>
Two nights is pretty pedestrian if you speak to some of the backpackers on the PCT or 2000 trail as it is labeled in the area. There you can meet through hikers who may have been on the PCT for months backpacking from Mexico on their way to Manning Park in British Columbia, and others who may be taking a week long trek
through this beautiful landscape. However pedestrian our two night visit was, the PCT through hikers have always been very friendly and with a huge smile on
their scruffy faces share some of their trail experience. I assume they are here 'to get away from it all' and they don't want to speak to a lot of people and I don't want to take up too much of their time.
But I've met some through hikers who were totally stoked to talk about their experience making me dream of doing the same some day.
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<p>
We began at the Snowgrass Flats trail head and hiked towards the Snowgrass Flats camp sites. We took the spur trail to the campsites which moves off
trail just before Snowgrass Flats trail (96) intersects with the PCT (2000) shortly after the Bypass Trail (97) which heads to Cispus Basin.
This detail escaped us when we were looking for the PCT trail the next day.
The Snowgrass Flats camping area is much smaller than represented on our maps and the trail connecting to the PCT appeared like it could be past our
campsite on the approach to Goat lake when it was actually just behind us off the spur trail. There are a number of very good campsites at Snowgrass Flats
and we found a good one Sunday evening as the sun was setting. There are a number of streams on the approach to Goat lake making for good water sources.
One stream was just 60 yards from our campsite and we filled up the next morning on our day hike to Goat lake. We were thinking we would hook up to the PCT
and up to Old Snowy. We didn't find the trail ascending the ridge to the PCT and we hiked up to Goat lake for lunch. Goat Lake appears to be a glacial cirque where the melted glacier carved out the cirque and the remaining bowl collects rain water and snow melt from the ridges above. Along those ridges could be seen roughly 30 mountain goats. Some grazing and some resting on the ridiculously steep angle of the cirque walls.
On our return we found a trail that went up to the PCT.
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<p>In our previous visits to this part of the Goat Rocks Wilderness we hiked the basic loop to the lake along Snowgrass Flats and Goat Ridge Trail (95), and on another occasion we camped off the PCT in <a href="http://hawgfuel.blogspot.com/2012/02/cispus-basin-goat-rocks-wilderness.html">Cispus Basin</a>, looking up at Mount Gilbert and hiking up to Cispus Pass, along Nanny Ridge to Nanny Peak with a fantastic view of Mount Adams. This was our first hike on the PCT approaching Old Snowy. The scenery was fantastic, we were so glad we found our way up to the ridge and wished we had found it earlier. As the trail ascends and approaches Old Snowy the terrain changes from green meadows to gravel and rocks. You pass the remnants of a stone structure. We saw a rectangle of piled rocks with mortar and rusty old nails. Not the structure the one hiker described when he was there in the 70's. The view of Adams disappeared in the clouds as Goat lake came into view.</p>
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<p>The half mile before Old Snow is pretty barren with rocks and skree but there are still numerous campsites with million dollar views. The caveat being that it is pretty exposed and windy. This didn't stop some industrious travelers express their creativity in rock formations overlooking the lake and valley below. At the trail head leading to Old Snowy we spoke to a hiker who had been on the PCT for 4 months. He was planning on continuing to Manning Park in British Columbia. I was surprised to see him wearing trail runners and after our conversation he effortlessly scrambled up Old Snowy with a full pack. Ellie and I had a snack, hiked up towards Old Snowy a bit and then set our packs the sie. We scrambled up Old Snowy and then headed back down to begin our return to our campsite. I was a little bit ahead of Ellie and nearly to bottom of the trail to Old Snowy when I heard a very loud thump and sliding sound. I was worried someone may have fallen onto the snow field below from the PCT as it clung to the side of the ridge and approached Elk Pass. I got near the edge of the rock wall I was descending and saw a large rectangular rock sliding down the snow field below the trail and stopped in the field of rocks below the snow field. There were two stepped snow fields below the trail. I could see the track in the snow the large rectangular rock made as it slid down the first snow field caught air and continued on the second snow field below before sliding to it's resting stop. I only saw the slide on the second snow field but could see evidence of it's slide. What I couldn't determine was whether the rock, which was likely 3 times the size of my backpack, fell from the rock wall to the side of the trail across the trail and down the two snow fields. There were many smaller rocks visible in the snow below the trail and that bit of trail seemed to be pretty active with falling rocks. If I were to hike that section I would want to move through that section quickly and be pretty aware of the rock wall to the side.</p>
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<p>
We made it back to our campsite. It was Monday night on Labor Day weekend, so we saw fewer hikers on the trail and in the campsites compared to the day before. Tuesday before packing out we hiked out to Cispus Basin and up to Cispus Pass. In full view of Mount Gilbert we passed the water fall I showered in on our previous visit. With the snow melt just hundreds of feet above the water fall I couldn't imagine doing that on such a cool day and assumed it must have been a much warmer day when I did. We had a snack at Cispus Pass and said hello to 2 more through hikers on the PCT. Another one who was wearing trail runners. After our snack we returned to our campsite, broke it down and headed back to the car.
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<p>
The Goat Rocks wilderness in Washington is one of those priceless locales. It is also pretty close to Portland and Seattle and with this beauty and accessibility there can be a couple hundred people hiking though on a summer weekend. I've read that a lottery is being considered to limit the number of visitors. Please be respectful of the meadows and campsites. Take a lifetime of memories and photos and leave no trace.
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<p>
View more photos of our trip to Goat Rocks on <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/hawgfuel/sets/72157646883773007/" target="_blank">Hawgfuel on fickr</a>.
</p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-53254267061073514642014-06-17T16:04:00.000-07:002014-06-17T16:04:14.818-07:00Lost Coast Trail, Northern Coast of California<p>
There is a bit of adventure in every road trip. And a road trip to the Lost Coast trail in northern California, a 25 mile beach hike dubbed one of the <a href="http://www.backpacker.com/lost-coast-trail-california/destinations/14903">best hikes ever</a> by Backpacker magazine in 2010 sounded like just an adventure we wanted. We are fans of hiking along the Washington coast between Cape Alava and Shi Shi beach and we added the Lost Coast trail to our list of favorite coastal backpacking trips.
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Our road trip could have gone many ways. We ended up visiting a number of wineries and micro breweries along our way down and took a quicker route on our return. Stopping in Yakima, Hood River, Bend, Grants Pass, and Eureka along the way for some fantastic food and local beverages. Stopping at Bandon, Eugene and Portland on our return to Seattle.
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<p>
As I sit writing and sipping a Syncline Counoise I'll drop a couple exceptional locales we visited. Gilbert Winery in Yakima, Double Mountain Brewing in Hood River, Syncline Winery in the Gorge, and 10 Barrel Brewing and Boneyard Brewing in Bend. And simply not enough time to get our full book of brewery stamps while in Bend. Next trip.
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<p>
We backpacked the northern stretch of the Lost Coast trail in the <a href="http://lostcoasttrails.wordpress.com/kings-range-national-conservation-area/">Kings Range National Conservation Area</a>. we reserved a shuttle from Shelter Cove to the trailhead at the mouth of the Mattole River. We would end at Black Sands beach by Shelter Cove and stay the night with a view of the coastline we just traveled in the past 3 days and 2 nights.
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<p>
One interesting aspect of visiting Humboldt county where we were is the history of marijuana growing. We heard many a good story of 'the business' in the area and by the time we left, we thought everyone was a grower. Before we arrived we read there was no reason to be afraid of the business in the area and after visiting we had no experience to change that idea. After all we're Washingtonians.
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<p>
Things to remember about this backpacking trip is that:
<ol>
<li>There are 2 sections of beach that are impassable at high tide, so get a tide chart. </li>
<li> There is a ton of poison oak on the meadow flats between some of the beach hiking, so learn what the leaves look like. </li>
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Sherri at <a href="http://www.lostcoastshuttle.com/">Lost Coast shuttle</a> was great and provided that information we needed as well as being a very friendly guide to our trail head.
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<p>
We shared the shuttle to the trail head which saved us a couple bucks but it turned out to be a bit of a late start. 10 am shuttle to Mattole trail head which would give us a 12pm start and we needed to backpack 4.5 miles before 3:30pm. We didn't really get started at 12pm and hiking on sandy the beach is slow going however flat.
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<p>
We arrived at Seal point around 3:15 and the tide chart recommended we stop hiking on this impassable at high tide section on this day by 3:30. So we did. It was a great place to camp. We took a ton of photos and loved watching the seals on the rocks. I really don't know the difference between seals and sea lions but there were a ton of them to watch as well as a great sunset. After watching the tide and hiking the beach to the end of the impassable at high tide section I really thought we could have hiked the beach before the high tide would become an issue.
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<p>
There is little elevation gain on the Lost Coast trail, but the rock fields or rock gardens whichever you choose to call them are pretty arduous and I was a little concerned of straining or spraining an ankle, but fortunately didn't even get a sore ankle. We never did get poison oak despite recognizing many bushy areas of the stuff. We never did see or hear a rattle snake as we read of. We did see a lot of seals, got a bit of sun burn and saw a grey whale surface 3 times as what we assumed was a mother guiding her baby along the coast. We saw her head come out of the water once, and the other two times just her back while blowing air.
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<p>
We got to Spanish Flats the second day and after talking to a fellow hiker we learned that there was some easy hiking on the meadow flats and we wondered if we burned time and energy hiking on the beach the past few miles. We had seen some meadow flats, looked up from the beach for a trail but saw none. In hind site there was probably a trail. The grass was nearly waist high and a path could be easily missed. Hiking on the meadow flats was a welcome change from the rock fields we slowly hiked the previous hour. The second night we camped near Big Flats by a stream under a hillside rock outcropping that had a make shift driftwood lean to enclosure. There are many streams on this hike to filter fresh water. In fact there were probably a small stream between each one marked on our map.
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<p>
Because of our late start, we still had roughly 10 miles to cover on our third day. We did a bit of leap frogging with the two hikers we shared the shuttle with on the first two days, but we didn't run across them on day three. They were both retired guys who had already backpacked the Lost Coast trail a few times. Whenever they asked how many days we planned to hike the trail and we replied three days and two nights Dudly would smile and say "that's kind of ambitious" and Herb would reply "yeah but they can do it". It is certainly doable, but I'd like to do it again in four days instead of three so as to enjoy the scenery a little longer.
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<p>
On the third day we didn't get any of the easy meadow flats hiking as we did the second day. There wasn't as much of the rock fields we experienced and there were long stretches of beach that were very wide with low tide and the wet sand made for an easy hiking surface. It was the Friday before Memorial day weekend and the closer we got to Black Sands beach the more day hikers and overnight party goers we saw hiking up the beach. We only saw about seven people the first two days. Our mid week visit made for more seclusion on very memorable stretch of coastline. We returned to our car and drove to <a href="http://www.innofthelostcoast.com/" target="_blank">Inn of the Lost Coast</a> where we could view the shoreline we hiked the previous three days from our seaside balcony. The pizza and beer in the room was pretty good that night.
</p>
<p>View more photos of our Lost Coast trip on <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/hawgfuel/sets/72157644530477899/">Hawgfuel flickr</a>.</p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-293563130354665622014-03-28T17:34:00.000-07:002014-03-28T17:34:35.144-07:00The DVT Blog Post
<p>
In an earlier <a href="#">blog post</a> I wrote about an injury that developed into Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT). This has been such a big part of my life I feel obligated to pass on a little info regarding the topic as many people do not even know what a DVT is and what a silent killer it is. A survey released at the American Public Health Association conference in Washington, D.C. showed that 74% of Americans have never heard of DVT. [Clinical Advisor, June 2004, page 53]. But approximately 100,000 deaths are caused from DVT's in the U.S. each year. 10 to 30% of people with a DVT will die within one month of diagnosis. Sudden death is the first symptom in about one-quarter (25%) of people who have a pulmonary embolism (PE) which is caused when part of the blood clot breaks free and becomes lodged in the pulmonary artery. "The good news is that DVT and PE are preventable and treatable." - Rear Admiral Steven K. Galson, M.D., M.P.H. Acting Surgeon General(US).
</p>
<p>
So you can imagine how anxious I became when I was diagnosed with a DVT, or maybe you can't, but trust me I was pretty overwhelmed. The great thing about the internet is that there is so much health care information online. The bad thing about it is there are so many sources of terrible terrible story lines of people who were diagnosed with a DVT and died shortly there after or who were misdiagnosed and died from lack of treatment.
But I'm active. I ride my bike nearly 4000 miles a year. A little running, yoga, spin classes, hiking, backpacking. Isn't this a disease for old dudes traveling long hours on planes? Apparently not. <a href="http://beta.active.com/articles/hidden-danger-dvt-in-endurance-athletes"> DVT in endurance athletes</a>.
</p>
<h3>Treatment & Recovery</h3>
<p>
The first two weeks I had to give myself lovenox injections twice a day in addition to the warfarin. The combo made me quite dizzy at times but subsided once I was off the lovenox. The first two weeks of blood thinners in addition to treatment for a Crohn's flare provided quite a daily cocktail. Yes I have Crohn's disease too, but that is another story. The week I was diagnosed with the DVT I could barely walk 3 blocks before my leg pain would make me stop, but I was back on my bike about 4 weeks after beginning treatment for the DVT. I started commuting to work again but couldn't put in any kind of hard effort until October. I took a pottery class at Pottery Northwest. I had taken classes there in 2000 to 2002 and wanted to do something during the summer I wasn't going to be very physically active.
By December I was running again and able to put in a hard effort biking. My leg wasn't 100% and it still is not 100%. If I exercise my leg swells just slightly. I experienced a superficial clot in my calf in January. It was a bit of a scare but cleared up in a couple weeks.
</p>
<p>
By May I was getting some good weekly mileage but by the end of May I was experiencing chronic fatigue and couldn't ride more than 2 hours. If I did ride more than two hours I would have to fight and give a great effort just to maintain a 14 mph average speed. It was no coincidence I was having a Crohn's flare and one that turned out to be one of my more severe flares. My iron level dropped below the healthy range. I wasn't anemic but the fatigue was more than I had experienced in the past. My doctor upped my cocktail, blood work, and additional tests, and in a few more weeks I was feeling good again. I was lacking the kind of bike fitness I wanted to keep up in group rides and shied away from doing so because of this. Cross club practice started and I was surprised to see I wasn't totally awful, but certainly slower. I enjoyed a cross season in the fall despite finishing closer to the back than I had my first season. I continued getting weekly mileage through the winter including some of the Seattle Randoneur's winter training rides and the Spring Populaire. In March I rode in the Ephrata Fondo. It was a gorgeous course. 80 miles in the high desert of Central Washington including 30 miles of gravel. WOOT! I finished mid pack 107 of 200 and felt really good - almost as good as before the clot.
</p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-91645103784817081122013-08-20T11:58:00.000-07:002013-08-20T11:58:13.716-07:00Horseshoe Basin Pasayten Forest WashingtonThis past fourth of July weekend was our third overnight backpacking trip to one of our all time favorite backpacking locations, <a href="http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/horseshoe-basin-pasayten" target="_blank">Horse Shoe Basin</a>. Two years ago we went on the fourth of July and hit snow and never hiked into the basin. We had camped at Sunny Pass and hiked up as the trail leading to the basin and the basin itself had significant amount of snow. The good thing was that we pretty much had Sunny Pass to ourselves. This year the weather was perfect and we hiked into the basin and a little further.
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<p>
We arrived at the Iron Gate trail head after a long day of driving and last minute preparations and with the remaining sunlight we set up camp, ate dinner and planned to hit the trail in the morning. There were a handful of cars, no one camping and a few good campsites to chose from. There is no fresh water at the trail head but there are vault toilets and of course the entrance to some awesomeness. The next day we ate breakfast and started our hike to Sunny Pass.
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<p>
The Iron Gate trail head begins at an elevation 6150'. The dirt road approaching the trail head is pretty rough and without all wheel drive you could definitely run into trouble. Along that dirt road we saw a big black bear run across the road and jump down into the meadows below. All I saw was a black blur and then a big black bear butt just before he descended into the meadow off the road. It was nearly cartoon like. Because we start at 6250' we only ascend about 1550' and this makes for a very nice gradual climb to Sunny Pass over the next 5 miles. We begin with a clearing and view of meadows, wildflowers and distant ridges before going back into a forested double track that continues for a couple miles before crossing a stream and the view opening up as we entered the part of the forest that burned in the Tripod Fire of 2006. You can see the forest recovering in this area but currently it is fairly exposed.
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<div style="font-size:smaller;text-align: center;">Jeffries Rockets</div >
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<p>
The approach to Sunny Pass ascends opening up the view of ridges across a valley of streams and lush grasses in the valley. The wind blows up through this channel and up to the saddle and each time we've hiked this area it seems to be cooler than the previous few miles. We are nearly 7000' so cooler temperatures should be expected. We camped at Sunny Pass as we did our previous 4th of July visit to Horseshoe Basin but this time there is no snow and we can descend into the Basin for two days of day hikes.
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<p>
The first day we set up camp and then hike down to Smith Lake. We see a handful backpackers up on the northern ridge but Sunny Pass is all ours. The hike to Smith Lake is much more impressive than the lake itself but it is a good location for a snack and along the way there are many stream crossings for good sources of water. We make it back to our camp in time to make dinner and take a bunch of photos of the horizon of fantastic peaks, ridges and clouds and the sunsets.
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<p>
The next day we hiked down to Loudon Lake and on past Rock Mountain along the trail another couple miles and headed back to camp. We would have had a much bigger day of hiking except that my good new boots already ripped up my heals and toes that would not heal for weeks. Thanks to mole skin it was a little more bearable and in the coming weeks I would begin our trips with the moleskin already applied.
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<p>
Such a fantastic landscape. We absolutely love Horseshoe basin. It is about 6 hours by car from Seattle to the trail head but take enough time to spend at least 2 nights in the basin. You won't regret it, but you will regret spending only 1 night out there. The next day we packed up, took some more photos and packed out. Never did see any bears in the basin. Never saw the moose reported on the wta site a few weeks before our visit and we saw few deer than our first visit, but the evening sky was better than ever and of course the wildflower were fantastic.
</p>
<p>
View additional photos of our trip at Horseshoe Basin on <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hawgfuel/sets/72157634721259094/">Hawgfuel's flickr.</a>
</p>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-66535257426119095402013-01-09T15:25:00.000-08:002013-01-14T10:19:45.275-08:00Horseshoe Canyon, The Great Gallery - Utah National Parks Tour Part Two<p>
So I decided to finish up story about our trip to Utah. We didn't do any hiking after I was diagnosed with a dvt in June of 2012. Fortunately we got a lot of hiking in during our Utah trip. We drove about 7 miles north of Hanksville on State route 24 to the 30 mile dirt road that leads to Horseshoe canyon. The surrounding landscape is desert sand and the low lying brush does not keep the sand from blowing and drifting on the road to the trail head. Our Grand Caravan prevailed and we really only ran into one sandy drift that felt like driving through snow. Another lucky day without rain, or we may have stayed out there a little longer stuck in the mud.
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<p>
We only saw 3 other cars at the trail head, and the very cool morning was beginning to heat up with each passing minute. Day packs on, we began the hike on slick rock down into the canyon to see the Great Gallery. The descent was fairly easy. We saw many more of the little lizards we've saw the previous day and by the time we approached the final descent into the canyon it had warmed to the point that sweatshirts were no longer needed.
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<p>
The canyon floor was very serene and we didn't come across another hiker for at least the first 45 minutes. There was a dry river bed running through the center of the canyon and closer to the canyon walls were some small trees and grass.
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<p>
After viewing some wall paintings along the way to the Great Gallery we came across another hiker at a fork in the trail. We briefly spoke. He said he was there years ago but was unable to find the Great Gallery that day. We wished him well and headed along the trail. We came across 3 areas where there were wall paintings before coming across the Great Gallery. The first two areas were small. The second slightly larger than the first. The third area of paintings was quite large and was in a kind of alcove where the cliff wall hung over the paintings and protected them from the elements. The area looked like an ampitheater and we walked up onto a naturally occurring stage before the paintings on the wall. Unfortunately this close access to the paintings allowed for previous visitors to scratch their names along side the 6000 year old wall paintings and their contribution paled in comparison, however each marking the wall and telling the viewer that they were here.
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<p>
We ate some food in the shade and view of the wall paintings. It was quiet and as we left to continue we spotted a group of roughly 8 approaching the ampitheater. We were just about in sight of the Great Gallery when we crossed paths with two more hikers leaving the Great Gallery and heading back to the trail head. So to our surprise and enjoyment Ellie and I sat and looked at the paintings at the Great Gallery for a half hour all by ourselves. I was taking a ton of photos and Ellie was enjoying the view with the binoculars that were stored in a box under a nearby bench. These paintings were better protected by elevation from the ground and some minor fencing.
</p>
<p>
It was a beautiful sunny day and time to head back. We came across the group of 8 on the way back and only saw one ranger and a couple on the way back to the car. No grand vistas or rock formations. The canyon had a different beauty. Not as extravagant as Bryce but it had quiet solitude to reflect on people who lived in the area 6 to 9 thousand years ago and who had left their mark on the canyon walls to be seen by people who had little idea who they were and what the paintings meant.
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<p>
The drive back was easier than coming in. Our directions coming in were a little confusing. The sand drifts didn't seem as treacherous and we were heading to Capitol Reef for some nights under the stars and more hiking adventures in the strange and beautiful Colorado Plateau of Utah.
</p>
<p>
View additional photos of our trip at Horseshoe Canyon on <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hawgfuel/sets/72157631353825516/" target="_blank">Hawgfuel's flickr</a>.
</p>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-61960628009355720752012-09-04T13:58:00.000-07:002012-09-10T10:36:57.477-07:00Utah National Parks Tour Part One
At the end of this past May we flew to Cedar City Utah to begin a road trip in a Grande Caravan rental, which in Cedar City is also known as an all wheel drive vehicle. The first stop of the road trip was Moab where we stayed the night and the next day we visited Dead horse park and Arches National Park. The loop trail we hiked at Dead Horse state park originated at the visitors center 2000 feet above the Colorado River. A road ran nearly parallel to the trail and if you didn't want to brave the 95 degree weather on foot you could easily drive to all the view points and take in some pretty amazing scenery. There were very few people who did brave the heat on the trail, or maybe they were just smarter, but it was a very flat trail and well maintained and pretty much ours except for people stopping in their vehicles to take photos.
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It was a pretty serene experience. Very quite, light breeze in the sunny hot afternoon, and expansive canyon views as far as the eye can see. Dead Horse state park of course isn't a National Park but it is in the same beautiful country of Canyonlands and nearby Arches National Park.
We finished up our hike at Dead Horse National Park and head back to Moab to view some Arches before dark and in particular see Delicate Arch at sunset. This was the same day of the lunar eclipse and many people were lining the roadside in the park to view the spectacle.
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We visited a few arches along the roadside and then hiked out to Delicate Arch to view it at sunset. Delicate Arch is a Utah icon. The image of this arch is on the Utah license plate and the arch is one of the most photographed arches in the park, and we did as many before us did and took photos of the arch as the sun set. It was quite beautiful. The crowds thinned out as it grew darker but we had our headlamps and stayed a little longer and we enjoyed a peaceful hike back to the car.
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The next day we headed south to the Needles District in Canyonlands National Park. We decided to hike 11 miles on the Chesler Park Loop / Joint Trail. Again we got a late start and were hiking in the hottest part of the day. The loop begins with a short ascent into the strange rock towers that dominate the landscape but other than the initial climb from the parking area the loop was pretty flat. It was in the mid 90's and the occasional shaded rock wall was a welcome site to rest and hydrate during the day. At one such resting stop we cut back and climbed up a few feet onto a shelf. This cliff was protected by a rock wall and it created a very cool shaded area to rest. To our surprise we found a dozen or more native american hand paintings or imprints on the wall. The Joint trail which looks similar to a slot canyon but is actually a cleft in the rock also was a welcome cool and shaded area of the hike and provided a little diversity in scenery.
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We each drank 3 liters of water that day. Fortunately we did not need our headlamps to return to the car. We found ourselves returning to the car with just 10 minutes of light and about a cup of water in our bladders and laughed at our timing and agreed we should allow for more time in the future. We had thought of camping nearby that night but it was already dark, <strike>we</strike> I was very hungry and we chose to head back to Moab for the night. Moab is a cool little town for your home base when visiting these parks but it is a small town and we didn't have much luck finding a place to eat at 10pm so we had trail snacks in our hotel room. The next day we headed south towards Natural Bridges Monument. We didn't do any hiking just site seeing via car to view the natural bridges. We continued on I-95 past the Colorado River and stayed the night in Hanksville. The next day we hit the road to Horsehoe Canyon to visit the Great Gallery.
<p>See the gallery of photos on Hawgfuel's <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hawgfuel/collections/72157631356953502/" target="_blank">flickr gallery</a></p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-57630080542268043572012-08-22T16:53:00.000-07:002012-08-22T17:07:29.758-07:00Mountain biking and a plan BAfter two seasons of racing cat 4 masters cyclocross my head became filled with the big idea like soft yummy warm fire side marshmellow that not only will I return to mountain biking, which has been a much loved but recently much neglected part of my cycling dance card, but that I will also try my old legs at mountain bike racing. Thus enters <a href="http://www.buduracing.com/" target="_blank">http://www.buduracing.com/</a> stage left with their very cool Singletrack Cycles West Side Mt. Bike Series. It is a 6 race series starting in February and ending in April and the mountain bike races are held on local single track. By the way the 3 of the 6 races I participated I was happy to see that probably 85 to 95% of the course was single track and very little jeep road, double track were present. I never did enter a mountain bike race before and my performance was certainly reflected that. I was only beating about 4 or 5 other racers in my category. But I was learning in preparation for two other longer distance races.<br />
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One of these races was the 30 miler in Echo Valley in June produced by the <a href="http://www.nwepicseries.com/">Northwest Epic Series</a> and their 50 miler in August at Capitol Forest. After returning from our trip to Utah I had two weeks to prep for the 30 miler at Echo Valley. I felt really good at Grand Ridge despite being off the bike for nearly 2 weeks while in Utah. And I followed that day of riding with a visit to Tiger Mountain the Sunday before Echo Valley. A clumsy fall onto my bike frame while turning around and I banged up my shin. It appeared to be another bone bruise on my shin. Bruising showing up days later confirmed my suspicion but I didn't think much of it. Except for the leg swelling. My lower calf and ankle seemed to have the fluid from the shin injury pooling in my lower leg. I applied the good ole RICE method to the leg and tried to heal up for the race the following weekend.<br />
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On the Friday morning I headed out to Chelan, my leg appeared to have no swelling. I was stoked. It looked like my leg would be good for the race. When I arrived in Chelan after the 3 hour drive my leg had swelled more than it had before with more pain than before. Not so stoked. I drove to the store for an ace bandage and kinetic tape and a bag of ice. I met up with some friends who were camping at the start the night before. There wasn't much to the race for me. I felt terrible. My leg began to ache and swell on the initial climb. Shortly after getting on the single track on the ridge I felt like I was riding on one leg. I felt a little more winded than I expected and the thought that if there is a blood clot in my leg this would probably be a really bad thing to be doing. I continued on the course and continued to be passed by the racers in my category and then racers in the categories behind me. I was pretty spent and demoralized by the end of the first lap. I realized I was at the dirt road we road up, which meant I could ride down it to the start and not finish the second lap, I stopped. I stood next to my bike and debated weather to continue for a few minutes as riders passed me and asked if I was o.k. It was then a guy passed by and said something simple yet encouraging that I can't recall and I continued on to the second lap. I was no longer racing. Just out for an afternoon ride. I finished the race 2nd last in my category.<br />
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I met my friends at the finish. It was nice of them to wait 45 minutes for me to finish. I had a hot dog and a Rainier and packed up and headed back to Seattle. The following week I was diagnosed with a blood clot in my left lower leg, also known as Deep Vein Thrombosis. The DVT effectively changed my summer plans.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-87958761594073449712012-02-20T19:26:00.002-08:002012-02-26T12:33:54.312-08:00Cispus Basin, Goat Rocks Wilderness. Washington, September 2011We really love the Goat Rocks Wilderness area in the <a href="http://www.fs.usda.gov/giffordpinchot">Gifford Pinchot forest</a>. Can't say we know much about the area but we have been to Goat Rocks for the past 3 years. This year we hiked and camped near the <a href="http://hawgfuel.blogspot.com/2010/09/goat-rocks.html">Goat Rocks loop</a> we did last year. We started at Snowgrass Flats trail but when we approached the camp sites at Snowgrass Flats we turned off Snowgrass Flats #96 onto Bypass trail #97. This took us north east towards Cispus Basin where we would camp with the spectacular view of Gilbert Peak and the Goat Rocks Massif just feet from the trail.<br />
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The weather was perfect high 60's in clear sunny skies. There was a surprising amount of lupine in the meadows, or at least bigger meadows of lupine than I can recall. Our campsite was just a quarter mile or so from the falls in Cispus basin which made for a good source of fresh water and a very brief chilly shower as we could basically see the glaciers and snow fields hundreds of feet above. The first day we hiked from the Snowgrass Flats trailhead to the campsite by the falls in Cispus Basin. The following day we hiked southeast to Nanny Peak which provided a spectacular view of Mount Adams.<br />
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Cispus Basin was one of the best places I awoke to in a tent. We received compliments for our campsite location by everyone who passed our campsite just 6 feet from the trail. I at first took this as sarcasm, but quickly realized giving up a secluded campsite for one with this beauty whose only caveat was that we said hello to eight backpackers before we started our day was a small price if nothing at all. In fact four of the backpackers were hiking the Pacific Northwest trail for multiple weeks and one who had been on the trail for three months and finishing in British Columbia where we were weeks earlier and our conversations with the passing backpackers was quite enjoyable as well as informative. The trail horse shoes past the falls nearly mid way and climbs up to Cispus Pass on the other side. The view of the peaks and ridges above are competing in their awesomeness with the view on the horizon and the extensive valley below. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o4aSqs4PFdc/T0MMufEr55I/AAAAAAAAAZU/nwRrqtYwT08/s1600/cispus-basin-ridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o4aSqs4PFdc/T0MMufEr55I/AAAAAAAAAZU/nwRrqtYwT08/s400/cispus-basin-ridge.jpg" /></a></div><br />
The hike to Nanny Peak the second day of our trip started with a hike up to Cispus Pass. The hike to the pass was fairly easy and exceptionally scenic as we got to view the water traveling from it's mountain ridge home above into the basin below. Once atop Cispus Pass the trail travels away from Cispus Basin and opens up to a new and beautiful scene of mountains and valleys below. There were still snow fields for the next half mile as we hiked along the ridge. We counted roughly 30 mountain goats grazing on the hill sides below on our return. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9594fvdhMY4/T0MMuVEylpI/AAAAAAAAAZg/t64DMrSB1n4/s1600/cispus-basin-deer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9594fvdhMY4/T0MMuVEylpI/AAAAAAAAAZg/t64DMrSB1n4/s400/cispus-basin-deer.jpg" /></a></div><br />
We climbed down the snow field from the Pass as the trail began to descend we left the snow behind. We dropped down further into a wooded part of the trail and nearly walked into two dear grazing on either side of the trail One young buck and I assumed the other was his mother, but I'm no dear expert. We started each other and Ellie and I stood still trying to capture the moment with our cameras. It looked like the doe might just keep grazing as we walked past but the buck got spooked and ran away with the doe chasing him. We continued on the trail snapping photos and looking at the flowers. It was a perfect sunny day in the low 70's. Perfect Northwest summer hiking weather. We reached Sheep Lake and filtered some water. The campsites looked full and and the sound of the people was carried across the little lake making for a small commotion. Considering how much time it takes to get out there, it didn't seem like a very appealing locale to camp. We left Sheep Lake and on to Nanny Peak.<br />
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We might have missed the spur trail that went up to the lookout on Nanny Peak if it weren't for a brief conversation with some other hikers who told us there were some small logs laid across the trail before it ascended to the peak. The look out on Nanny Peak was well worth the hike. There were no other hikers or campers and we sat and ate with a awesome view of Mt. Adams.<br />
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We took our time getting to Nanny Peak. We took photos of the landscape and the meadow flowers and looked for critter sightings. We had limited time for our return to our weekend home in Cispus Basin and without a whole lot of sight seeing and stops on the way back our return trip took nearly half the time it took us to get to Nanny Peak. <br />
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It was great timing as we reached Cispus Pass in time to slow down our descent to our basin campsite as the sun began to set which may have been one of the best part of the day. The light in the basin, along the ridges and in the meadows was fantastic. We returned to camp another night in Cispus Basin before returning to our car via Snowgrass Flats the following day.<br />
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<p>For more photos of Cispus Basin visit HawgFuel on <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hawgfuel/sets/72157628119210201/" target="_blank">flickr</a></p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-29940822882519063712011-10-26T15:47:00.000-07:002011-10-26T17:50:21.771-07:00MFG Raceway XC - race reportAnd now for what everyone awaits with great anticipation, a Cat 4 Masters race report. You know the race that you wait to end before you spin out a practice lap and preview the course. You may even wonder why those old guys are called masters when half of them race like noobs. Well thankfully some people still respect their elders with such noble titles. And there are plenty of sandbaggers to make the field fast. One of the drawbacks of racing the first race of the day is waking up on the weekend early enough to pack up the bike gear and be ready to race on a fairground or park an hour away from home at 9:30am. This is also a bonus. I can get a race in and get home and on to other nonsense by early afternoon if I don't have time to heckle and drink beer the rest of the afternoon. Being able to get a few warm up laps for my old legs immediately before for the start and before the course has been totally torn up by hours of hundreds of riders is a good thing too. <br />
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<div style="width:400px;margin:auto;"><object type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="400" height="225" data="http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=71377" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000"> <param name="flashvars" value="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=17a10805e2&photo_id=6277322099"></param><param name="movie" value="http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=71377"></param><param name="bgcolor" value="#000000"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=71377" bgcolor="#000000" allowfullscreen="true" flashvars="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=17a10805e2&photo_id=6277322099" height="225" width="400"></embed></object><br />
Single Speeders Start<br />
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Sunday's MFG Cyclocross Raceway XC at Marymoor was a typical race for me. I usually get to the race in time for a few warm up laps with a banana in my oatmeal and a few cups of coffee in my belly. The entire morning I get excited to race. I remind myself to ride hard, have fun and memorize the course so I can anticipate areas where I hope to attack and pass. Another typical aspect of my race is my crappy start. Sunday I had an average mid pack random call up. No point call ups for this Cat 4 desperado. Sittng between two racers in front of me I think I can split them or go around one of them on the left or the right. We finally start and I'm hold pace with the two racers ahead of me except other racers are flowing around these two guys. These two had beneficial random call ups and couldn't stay with the group and made for a good two man wall that kept me from passing until we hit the first turn. <br />
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<div style="width:400px;margin:auto;"><object type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="400" height="225" data="http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=71377" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000"> <param name="flashvars" value="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=3d3b877b43&photo_id=6277352299"></param><param name="movie" value="http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=71377"></param><param name="bgcolor" value="#000000"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=71377" bgcolor="#000000" allowfullscreen="true" flashvars="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=3d3b877b43&photo_id=6277352299" height="225" width="400"></embed></object><br />
Cat 3 Men's Start<br />
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I was able to pass a few riders on the straight away before the hair pin turn around the tree and passed a couple more on the flat heading towards the run up. The racers slowed down and bunched up at the turn before the wooden stair run up. Just as I'm thinking about my dismount a racer to my left tries to make a move and pass. He gives me the shoulder bump but fails to realize I'm no skinny racers and bounces back and falls into the tape and onto the ground, I dismount and run up the stairs fighting to get to the top of the off camber hill to remount and down towards to infield of the velodrome. I don't appreciate my American football skills until after the race but instead try and survive the flurry of spastic bunched up racers on the first lap. Coming down the flat along the velodrome track I pass a few more racers and slow for the corner when I see a rider go down transitioning from the pavement to the grass. This scene repeats itself each time I approach that corner. After carnage corner we raced up to the barriers and just feet before my dismount another racer thinks of passing me at an inopportune time. He bumps my side and slows, I recover but still a bit off and run through the barriers holding my bike by the hoods of the bars. We round a right corner and I move past a few more riders. After the first corner I only had a dozen or so riders behind me and now I was playing catch up to the 50% where I often finish. <br />
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I found I'm faster on the flats this year than last and I pass some more riders as we weave through the velodrome in field and surrounding landscape. I look for a couple corners to pass. One corner has us race up a small hill and immediately turn back down again. I don't hesitate at the top nor break and come down fluid on the bike and past a few racers. I continue to race towards mid pack and on the last half of the last lap I fall in the mud around a hair pin corner slowing to avoid hitting the racer ahead of me who I think is being overly cautious. I recover quickly and pass a few riders in the process. On the second last flat before the finish I pass a rider who is toast, done, bonked, hosed and I realize despite a limited number of sprints in my legs during a race I feel like I can ride hard for a long time. The idea of racing in the Cat 4 men's category would give me at least 10 more minutes to work my way into the 20 something finish but ultimately I need to be aggressive in my starts.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-16899200757520328102011-09-28T20:33:00.000-07:002011-09-29T14:13:39.099-07:00Cascade Pass - North Cascades, Washington August 2011Just a week after our trip to B.C. we headed up to North Cascade Highway for a day hike at <a href="http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/cascade-pass" target="_blank">Cascade Pass</a> and a bit of the <a href="http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/sahale-arm" target="_blank">Sahale Arm</a>. The day started out cool and cloudy but I was optimistic the clouds would burn off. The parking lot was nearly full when we arrived. The trail was in pretty good condition and made for easy hiking through the old growth forested area. There was an odd sound of running water whose source I could not find until I noticed little streams just below the ground surface and could see peek-a-boo views of the water trickling below the ground as if gofers revealed the water source for us with their digging. <br />
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Up a number of switch backs and on to a rockier exposed trail (where did I experience this before?) on our way up to the pass. It was a fairly easy hike up to Cascade Pass which would make a 7 mile hike there and back. From Cascade Pass you can see the valley and ridges that lead to Stehekin the tiny town on the north end of Lake Chelan and looking back we saw the tremendous ridges and valley below from where we hiked. The clouds began clearing and we were treated to an excellent view, but we weren't ready to turn around just yet. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M0yv0YAhBuo/ToPodF7-rzI/AAAAAAAAAW0/5nVhQia2_xc/s1600/cascade-pass-snowy-peaks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M0yv0YAhBuo/ToPodF7-rzI/AAAAAAAAAW0/5nVhQia2_xc/s400/cascade-pass-snowy-peaks.jpg" /></a></div><br />
At the pass is a privy and some of the people taking in the view said they saw a mountain goat lingering around the privy. Seems these goats can't get enough salt and are attracted to the salt of our pee. I've even read of instances where mountain goats were reported to chew on hikers sweaty shirts or backpacks. There were quite a few people taking in the view at the pass, we had seen many goats the week before and we continued up towards the Sahale arm as we passed the trail the lead to Stehekin. This part of the trail ascended quickly up rocky switchbacks. The skies continued to clear and the sun was bright just in time to make it even warm up the steep climb. Once we passed the switch backs we crossed a couple mountain meadows and stopped for lunch at a flat area overlooking both valleys under the Sahale glacier. <br />
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It was a pretty awesome location to eat a PBJ and take a hundred or so photographs. The peaks surrounding that area were snow covered and spiky North Cascade classics. We didn't see any goats but another hiker told us one was up by the climbers' camp up by the glacier. We stayed at that area for about as long as we were comfortable doing so with the amount of day light remaining and then headed down. On our way down it seemed like the streams carried more water down the mountain sides. The sight and sound of so much water coming down the mountain just feet from the source is always amazing and it surely was that day. We encountered a few more backpackers heading up to the Sahale glacier for the night. I wasn't sure if they were all climbers or were heading up to stay the night so that they could experience an incredible sunset amongst the peaks which is exactly what I was thinking could make a fantastic evening as long as one could stay warm after dark. We managed to get back to the car and drive down the dirt road with the remaining daylight and back to Seattle for another great one in the North Cascades.<br />
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View the gallery of images from <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hawgfuel/sets/72157627653302225/" target="_blank">Cascade Pass</a> at HawgFuel's flickr gallery.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-8742443232109967952011-09-28T20:11:00.000-07:002011-10-06T11:15:22.874-07:00The Cyclocross sickness continuesThis year I've been riding with a bunch of the guys from <a href="http://www.softlikekitten.com/" target="_blank">Soft Like Kitten</a> an amateur Cyclocross race team. A number of the folks I met last season and with joining the group I immediately inherited a bunch of partners in crime to ride bike with. So while I feel stronger this year with a earlier start on training and a season of experience under my belt for this cyclocross season it seems most of the other dudes I've been riding with have got the cyclocross sickness and are showing some solid fitness and form. <br />
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I had nearly all my long distance riding done with by the end of June with the Flying Wheels Century and the Chelan Century. My longest training ride in July was a 38 miler in preparation for the Seattle Century. Much of the summer included trail riding, Cross Club racing/riding in July and August, a couple MFG preseason races, and a trip back to Palisades in August to find the sweet single track without the snow we found in July. <br />
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<div style="text-align:center"><img src="http://www.onceglimpsed.com/Cyclocross/MFG-Cyclocross-King-Countys/i-wCVKGts/1/XL/IMG6692-XL.jpg" width="400" /><br />
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In addition to getting a sharp new pink and black team kit, I picked up a 2012 Jake the Snake. One size smaller than my Jake, and an exceptionally lighter and more agile 10 speed. A grown man wearing pink spandex and riding a bike worth more than his aging 22 year old Honda can only mean he has something wrong in the head and the cyclocross sickness has set in. If you're reading this there is a good chance you have the cyclocross sickness too. You're still high Monday morning from a Sunday's Cat 4 or 3 race regardless of place as long as you finished and if you didn't that also motivates you and you're already looking forward to the next race. It is simultaneously one of the most ridiculous and fun elements of cycling I've participated in.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-7826944318454005302011-09-09T16:17:00.000-07:002011-09-09T19:14:02.902-07:00Manning Provincial Park B.C. - Canada 2011We lost one day of hiking at Cathedral Park due to the rain but by staying at the lodge we were fresh and ready to drive to Manning Park after the bumpy drive down the mountain. We made a quick pit stop in Keremeos for lunch and then back on the highway to Manning Provincial Park. We stopped at the ranger station by the park, paid for camping and got the scoop on the trails. I use the term ranger station generously as we only spoke with a young park attendant as was the case in Cathedral Park. Tired of folding sweaters at the GAP? Become a Provincial park attendant and collect camping and parking fees.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IzEJfytLPCE/TmENUJxWDmI/AAAAAAAAAWg/hr4gB5m98sk/s1600/manning-flower.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IzEJfytLPCE/TmENUJxWDmI/AAAAAAAAAWg/hr4gB5m98sk/s400/manning-flower.jpg" /></a></div><br />
I picked up a brochure that showed photos and listed the many wild animals living in Manning park. Bobcat, Cougar and Lynx made the list but we would see none of these wild cats or the bears who were left out of the brochure, but we were to assume they were in the park as the attendant informed us.<br />
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We drove up the mountain to the Heather Trail trail head which lead to the Buckhorn campsite. The North Cascades WOW Guide recommended against staying at this campsite as it is right on the trail and near the trail head of a very popular trail. With this spectacular trail just 3 hours from Vancouver the trails receive quite a few visitors. We got there on a Thursday and hoped to beat the weekend rush. Turned out we did beat the weekend rush. We camped at Buckhorn and shared the 10 site camp area with just 1 other couple the first night and probably 3 other sites filled up Friday night before we saw the many day hikers Saturday morning on our way out.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cB2HHOSj0ac/TmENTwcmXSI/AAAAAAAAAWY/fm0ORYygbZ8/s1600/manning-elephant-flower.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cB2HHOSj0ac/TmENTwcmXSI/AAAAAAAAAWY/fm0ORYygbZ8/s400/manning-elephant-flower.jpg" /></a><br />
<p style="width:400px;margin:auto;margin-top:2px;margin-bottom:4px;font-size:smaller;">The elusive Elephant Flower. Found near streams in the North Cascades.</p></div><br />
We backpacked in 3 miles to Buckhorn and stay the night. Friday we hiked up to First Brother, hiked back to camp for another trail side dinner and another night in the tent at Buckhorn and packed out the next day and drove back to Seattle.<br />
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The hike to First Brother took us through old growth forest, brilliant flower meadows and then up to a ridge with fantastic views of the North Cascades. The trail was in very good shape. Once we were on the ridge approaching First Brother we walked over a couple small snow fields. The last mile or so approaching First Brother became a lot steeper and a little rocky but not too challenging. Yep we got some kick ass mountains in Washington and we had an awesome 360 degree view of many of those peaks from First Brother once we got to the top.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xqo3wLWBZGk/TmENTph9yEI/AAAAAAAAAWI/MXLpmxmP5kY/s1600/big-brother-approach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xqo3wLWBZGk/TmENTph9yEI/AAAAAAAAAWI/MXLpmxmP5kY/s400/big-brother-approach.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Saturday morning we ate breakfast and said goodbye to our trail side home and packed out. There was a steady stream of hikers coming up the Heather trail and we were glad we hit it before the weekend.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hawgfuel/sets/72157627319892593/" target="_blank">Flickr gallery of Manning Park</a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-40262889955986971442011-08-29T17:29:00.000-07:002011-08-29T17:30:28.131-07:00Cathedral Provincial Park, British Columbia Canada - August 2011There are a few locations I've visited in the past that transcend the every day and provide an almost other worldly experience. Perhaps the experience at these locals benefit from the perfect alignment of stars and planets and good weather but a few of these places will offer this special experience with so much regularity that you find yourself making an annual pilgrimage to that location. Cathedral Provincial Park in British Columbia is one of these locations. Everyone we met at Cathedral Park were return visitors. As few as 3 times and as many as 13 times is what we were told in conversation with some of the nicest fellow hikers we've met. And it didn't take long to figure out why one would desire to return to such magnificent landscapes.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qAKfGHHA3NU/TlBuIMpksII/AAAAAAAAAVY/_w7qbwaMiqI/s1600/quinsecoe-lake.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qAKfGHHA3NU/TlBuIMpksII/AAAAAAAAAVY/_w7qbwaMiqI/s400/quinsecoe-lake.jpg" /></a></div><br />
It was just a little over six hours to Keremeos Canada from Seattle where we spent the night. The next day we made the short drive to Cathedral lakes parking for the shuttle up the road to the Cathedral Provincial Park Core area. Cathedral Park is a national park as we would say in the states but there is a private lodge 3000' up by Quinsecoe lake in Cathedral Park. The <a href="http://www.cathedrallakes.ca" target="_blank">Cathedral Lakes Lodge</a> maintains the road up to Quinsecoe Lake and they also provide a round trip shuttle up the road for $100/person. So we did as the North Cascades WOW guide recommended and skipped the 2 day long slog up the mountain and shelled out the dough for a rather bumpy hour long ride up to Quinsecoe Lake where we set up camp for $10/day/person.<br />
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There are three shuttles/day if they are all in demand. The 10am up the mountain will provide the opportunity to choose from the best selections of campsites and we got one right on the lake and near the spring. There was even a little patch of snow to keep my small collection of beverages from Oscar Blues Brewing.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gFKkDGm7Mqg/TlBpNKo8IKI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/WRXYIoeLUNY/s1600/cathedral-buck.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gFKkDGm7Mqg/TlBpNKo8IKI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/WRXYIoeLUNY/s400/cathedral-buck.jpg" /></a></div><br />
We set up camp and had time to go on a hike the same day. We chose to hike on the Diamond Trail around Scout mountain and then up to Red Mountain on part of the rim trail. I led us off course by 45 minutes when I chose the right on the Centennial trail towards Manning Park when we should have taken a left. The trail turned into a route and we followed a number of tairns. We saw a gorgeous 9 point buck up on one of the mountain side meadows and continued until I realized we should not be descending. A quick view of the trail description in the book and we corrected our course back towards Red Mountain.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jzpCrUfb8Po/TlBuIBTShSI/AAAAAAAAAVg/LAdbxvigfiE/s1600/red-mountain-approach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jzpCrUfb8Po/TlBuIBTShSI/AAAAAAAAAVg/LAdbxvigfiE/s400/red-mountain-approach.jpg" /></a></div><br />
It was 6pm by the time we got to Red mountain and the trail turned into a route guided by tairns and due to the time and the rock scramble ahead of us we went down to Quinsecoe and back to our camp but not until we got some great photos. With the kind of landscapes and skies we were seeing it seemed like every button click captured a moment of wonder.<br />
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We returned to camp with a great hike on our first day. The next day we would set out to hike on the Rim trail. We fired up the MSR stove and boiled some water for one of our backpacking meals. We really didn't take advantage of the fact that we could bring 2 large bags on the shuttle up the mountain and kept our bags light. Some of the other campers had greater amenities and food that one would normally have on a car camping trip but because we haven't been on a car camping trip in some time it was easier to do what we usually do.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hxlvf9woSjo/Tknw0SAS8YI/AAAAAAAAAUw/QnSncvv355U/s1600/red-mountain-ridge-back-view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hxlvf9woSjo/Tknw0SAS8YI/AAAAAAAAAUw/QnSncvv355U/s400/red-mountain-ridge-back-view.jpg" /></a></div><br />
We set out for the Rim trail. We had planned to go up glacier trail towards Glacier Lake but our friendly and knowledgeable camping neighbor suggested a parallel trail that provided better views and only a little extra distance so we took his advice and headed out for the day. A couple we spoke to on the shuttle up the mountain said this was their 13th visit to Cathedral Park and they had their adult children with them who also visited the park many times. Our camping neighbors told us they have visited the park numerous times and in fact John told us the story of how he met his wife of 10 years while camping at the park. So why would it be a surprise to see a bride in her white gown with a small wedding party on the hill near Glacier Lake? We later found out they hiked up with the gown securely stowed and then changed for the photos, and what a backdrop the Devil's Woodpile and Quiniscoe Mountain must have made. <br />
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Shortly after Glacier Lake the trial began climbing quickly. The trail turned from a dirt path to rock pile and snow field before reaching trail that connected to the Rim trail that ran along the rim of the ridge surrounding the core area.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1e-SFAahLRY/Tknw0OHQXEI/AAAAAAAAAUo/P73aEvAJQV0/s1600/glacier-lake.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1e-SFAahLRY/Tknw0OHQXEI/AAAAAAAAAUo/P73aEvAJQV0/s400/glacier-lake.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Once we were atop the ridge on the Rim trail we had an immediate "WOW" moment. Simply meaning as soon as I could see the many peaks and ridges of the North Cascades from the Rim trail the first thing to leave my mouth was WOW! and a then Ellie reach the trail and she had the same response. It was really an amazing view. We had perfect weather just wearing short sleeve shirts and shorts and the skies were perfect too. Not crystal clear no that isn't good for photos. I want little puffy clouds like in the Simpson cartoons and I want them to move and cast shadows on the peaks and ridges and that is exactly what the sky provided did for some fantastic photos. The view we saw when getting atop the Rim trail would have made for a magnificent view for a spectacular hike in itself. Had this been a day hike in western Washington we would have been thoroughly satisfied and filled with amazement, but that wasn't even half of the day we would experience. Maybe it was half it or just the beginning. How does one quantify the experience of the wonder? <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hg126uxTRKA/Tknw00KWVVI/AAAAAAAAAVA/wKWBHCgMvBM/s1600/rim-peaks-view-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hg126uxTRKA/Tknw00KWVVI/AAAAAAAAAVA/wKWBHCgMvBM/s400/rim-peaks-view-1.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Now on the Rim trail we made our approach to Stone City. Before we reached Stone City we also saw Devil's Woodpile, but we never recognized it as Devil's Woodpile and I still think that part of the ridge was poorly named. It had no wood, trees or anything that resembled a wood pile to me. Passed the poorly named part of the ridge towards Stone City we viewed a large mountain goat dozing on a western facing rock overlooking the vast ridges of the Northern Cascades and feet from a sheer drop off. On to Stone City where we saw a few more mountain goats and some happy hikers having lunch on top of the world we made our way to Smokey the Bear and Giant Cleft. The land marks were a little lacking in their naming but not in their views. Eating peanut butter sandwiches for lunch by the Giant Cleft trumped any restaurant experience I've ever had.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-czlSYHsiv5E/Tknw1OdAR9I/AAAAAAAAAVI/dSyHsq6pgIE/s1600/rim-peaks-view-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-czlSYHsiv5E/Tknw1OdAR9I/AAAAAAAAAVI/dSyHsq6pgIE/s400/rim-peaks-view-2.jpg" /></a></div><br />
After lunch we headed back to Stone City where we descended to Lady Slipper Lake. Again the trail approaching the ridge was rocky but this section of trail was steeper and erosion made it a little difficult to find the route. Once we stepped off that bug infested eroded baby head rock trail we were somehow transported to a flat rock high desert like landscape. We descended into an area with a ridge on our left and intermittent trees, rocks and a few streams and then the trail turned a corner and showed us Lady Slipper Lake. <br />
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We could see many trout in the clear lake water. There were threatening clouds moving in over the ridges surrounding the far end of the lake. We followed the trail along the lake heading towards Quinsecoe Lake and we stopped to get some shelter from a hail storm that began. The hail storm lasted about twenty minues and then turned to rain. Once the rain started we felt like the precipitation wasn't going to stop very soon so we zipped up our rain jackets and continued down the trail.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YVlY5Hk5bPc/TlsFDrhZObI/AAAAAAAAAVw/8y3DtBkswaA/s1600/goats-stone-city.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YVlY5Hk5bPc/TlsFDrhZObI/AAAAAAAAAVw/8y3DtBkswaA/s400/goats-stone-city.jpg" /></a></div><br />
We hiked up and away from Lady Slipper and into more forested area before descending again towards Pyramid Lake. The descent to Pyramid Lake had me somewhat amazed at how high an elevation Lady Slipper lake really was. We experienced some rolling thunder on the descent to Pyramid Lake but didn't see any lightening despite any internal worries of being high up on a ridge during a storm. Once we passed Pyramid Lake it was pretty easy going to the Lake of the Woods and back to our camp ground. The dehydrated backpacker food tasted exceptionally good that night and we both turned in and slept like a couple rocks on the wooden platform that our tent was sitting on.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DuZHT5-LzkM/TlhcvXJEmuI/AAAAAAAAAVo/PC8FpNVe8NY/s1600/lady-slipper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DuZHT5-LzkM/TlhcvXJEmuI/AAAAAAAAAVo/PC8FpNVe8NY/s400/lady-slipper.jpg" /></a></div><br />
The next morning we did not wake to mountain goats walking through our camp site like the previous morning. We did wake up to some pretty thick fog. I made some coffee and walked down to the lake to sit on a rock just off the shore and stared out into the grey/white wall of the fog. It felt like I was looking at the edge of the universe. I could not see more than a few feet of the lake in front of me and could not make out anything on the other side of the lake. Shortly after the fog cleared the rain clouds came into view and a steady rain followed. A couple hours after the rain began we decided to stay the night in the lodge. We had decided to stay in a hotel the next day but because we missed the a day of hiking due to rainy weather we thought we would have that hotel night at the lodge where we could get a shower, a cooked meal and sleep in a bed. This ultimately meant we would have time to camp in Manning Park an additional night.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZVDum50Gzh0/TlwtzuAQb4I/AAAAAAAAAWA/FS2zn-IrSXM/s1600/stone-city-far-gate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZVDum50Gzh0/TlwtzuAQb4I/AAAAAAAAAWA/FS2zn-IrSXM/s400/stone-city-far-gate.jpg" /></a></div><br />
The stay at the lodge was a guilty comfort we enjoyed. We were a bit wet and cold and took the opportunity to dry our packs by the fire place and drink some coffee after a hot shower and a change into clean clothing. The cost of a simple room at the lodge is a bit more than we would have spent on a roadside hotel on our way to Manning so we were secretly glad to see the rain continue all day as it ensured we made a good decision. The dinner at the lodge turned out to be one of our favorite experiences at the park as well. The food was simple yet very good. We ate at a table with a mother and daughter who were fellow campers. We had spoken to them near Stone City about the goats we had seen. The other two guests at our table were a retired couple and the husband was a retired Canadian Forester. The four were from Canada (we didn't meet a single american while visiting the park)and we exchanged stories of hiking and camping. After dinner we found a comfy spot by the fireplace to finish out the evening with a game of Scrabble. Tired, inspired by our time on the local trails and our conversations with our fellow hikers we hoped it would not come to an end the next day. But the next day began our next adventure at Manning Provincial Park.<br />
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See the full set of photos from <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hawgfuel/sets/72157627432641348/" target="_blank">Cathedral Provincial Park B.C.</a>.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-92031221665837012122011-08-14T12:55:00.000-07:002011-08-14T13:08:53.710-07:00Marmot Pass - Quilcene, Washington 2011The Spring of 2011 had been rather cool and wet and made for a late thaw of the trails above 5000'. We had gone to Horseshoe Basin (<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hawgfuel/sets/72157627257539602/">photos</a>) the 4th of July weekend and found lots of snow in the higher meadows so we hiked up and away without walking through some great meadows we experienced last year. Coupled with a rather snowy mountain biking trip <a href="http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes-of-the-week/noble-knob">Knoble Nob</a> a few weeks later I was looking for a much less snowy trail experience. The search lead to <a href="http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes-of-the-week/marmot-pass" target="_blank">Marmot Pass</a>. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bM2JTD05uF4/TkgjKO2aUOI/AAAAAAAAATw/8L6IVXs1wxQ/s1600/stream.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="400" width="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bM2JTD05uF4/TkgjKO2aUOI/AAAAAAAAATw/8L6IVXs1wxQ/s400/stream.jpg" /></a></div><br />
We left Seattle late in the morning as we usually do. We missed the ferry we had hoped to catch and were delayed even longer. It was late afternoon by the time we got to Quilcine so we decided to get place to stay for the evening, get some dinner and hit the trail in the morning. We found a nice little Bed and Breakfast in Brinnon and ate at the Geoduck Tavern which offered some pretty good pub grub and a couple yummy micro brews. They also boasted a rave review in Esquire magazine, but I failed to catch that issue and I think one would be hard pressed to find a resident of Brinnon outside the employees of the restaurant who did read the review.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L-SaLp5fR9w/Tkgk_dSnXkI/AAAAAAAAAT4/N-BwS9KOVIs/s1600/open-trail-ridges.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L-SaLp5fR9w/Tkgk_dSnXkI/AAAAAAAAAT4/N-BwS9KOVIs/s400/open-trail-ridges.jpg" /></a></div><br />
The climb to Marmot Pass includes 3500' of elevation gain but on trails that were in pretty good condition. The beginning of the trail climbs along a stream through old growth forest and then opens up on rockier gravel like trail to reveal some gorgeous snowy ridges and colorful meadows.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4O7Ew52T2z4/TkgaksL5SYI/AAAAAAAAATg/czMHvtX78qc/s1600/pass-view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4O7Ew52T2z4/TkgaksL5SYI/AAAAAAAAATg/czMHvtX78qc/s400/pass-view.jpg" /></a></div><br />
The scenery was reminiscent of the North Cascades but not quite as imposing and jagged. On the approach to the summit of the pass we hiked over a couple snow fields that did not pose much more of a challenge than the trail and we were greatly rewarded with fantastic views as we ate our lunch atop Marmot Pass. The weather stayed warm and the skies remained sunny and clear. No fast moving weather changes for us on the ridge that day. It remained perfect the entire time. 3500' in 5.3 miles is nothing to laugh at and my knees felt it on the decent. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tF-fjpF5elQ/TkgakSY8leI/AAAAAAAAATY/pHTlYKGGc3g/s1600/pass-signage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="400" width="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tF-fjpF5elQ/TkgakSY8leI/AAAAAAAAATY/pHTlYKGGc3g/s400/pass-signage.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Marmot Pass turned out to be a great choice for a day hike but could definitely offer more and be a great over nighter. It may be challenging to get to the trail head, enjoy the hike and be back in Seattle in one day but not outside the realm of possibilities if you can get your butt out of bed earlier than I on the weekends.<br />
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See the full set of photos from <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hawgfuel/sets/72157627377130782/with/6017836433/" target="_blank">Marmot Pass</a>.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-68636674892543229032011-08-04T19:43:00.000-07:002011-08-04T19:43:24.289-07:00Chelan Century Challenge - Washington 2011This past June we headed out to Chelan once again but this time so that I could ride in the <a href="http://www.centuryride.com/" target="_blank">Chelan Century Challenge</a>. The Chelan Century Challenge takes place of course in Chelan Washington well known for it's lake Chelan, which is surrounded by some great mountains. The lake, mountains and high desert of the east side of the Cascades make this area a beautiful and unique place to visit. Mike and Thomas joined me for this cycling adventure. We all were late to register for the STP this year as it sold out much earlier than previous years and so we wanted to find another big ride. The Chelan Century Challenge fit the bill and we headed east with our Cutters jerseys.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oFJ3R-UCSxg/TjtBcapE1OI/AAAAAAAAATQ/1-nCHhCkr80/s1600/chelan-century-start.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="198" width="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oFJ3R-UCSxg/TjtBcapE1OI/AAAAAAAAATQ/1-nCHhCkr80/s400/chelan-century-start.jpg" /></a></div><br />
We stayed in Chelan the Friday night before the ride. I was only 3 miles from the start and rode my bike to the start. I caught up with Thomas and Mike and a few of their friends making us a group eight. The start and finish was at Don Morse Park just a few blocks north of Cambell's and the little downtown area. From the start were 3 loops that made the course resemble a 3 petaled flower. The first loop went on the east side of Lake Chelan and ran north. At the beginning of <a href="http://www.centuryride.com/index.php?page_id=299" target="_blank">Loop 1</a> maybe a half mile up the road and we started accumulating the 8600' of elevation gain we would have climbed by the end of the day. The only moment there is, is now so we climbed. The roads were in good shape with little car traffic. The sky was clear and sunny and warm enough to start the ride with arm warmers. After climbing a few miles we were treated to a long descent with swooping curves and switch backs as we approached the lake and then headed back to the start to regroup and begin loop 2.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zUPtsXuyGls/Tjg_WlXBlJI/AAAAAAAAATA/s3bcBUX9Qyc/s1600/chelanChallenge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zUPtsXuyGls/Tjg_WlXBlJI/AAAAAAAAATA/s3bcBUX9Qyc/s400/chelanChallenge.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<a href="http://www.centuryride.com/index.php?page_id=300" target="_blank">Loop 2</a> included a 7 mile 3000' climb up McNeil Hill starting around mile 53. Our group spit up into smaller groups by this time with Thomas, Mike and I riding together. McNeil hill was the toughest hill climb I've experienced. Riders descending the hill had huge smiles on their faces and looked to be doing 40 something and some even 50 some mph down. The pavement was in great shape it was warmer but not too hot so the conditions were good for such a climb. I really wanted to complete the climb without stopping but I was ahead of the group and at just 7 tenths of a mile from the top I decided to end the suffering for a moment and stop. I stopped and stood up as a wave of nausea washed over me and then was gone with a breeze, but I was glad I did stop as I thought I probably would have puked at the top had I not. Bragging writes vs. puking in a non competitive bike event seem to balance in the non puking direction much of the time for myself. We fueled up, regrouped and sped down the mountain in just a few minutes back towards Chelan and the ride's start.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XGDVNDoZnIQ/Tjn57ztaqbI/AAAAAAAAATI/MumafC0izE0/s1600/chelan-century-me-mike.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="225" width="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XGDVNDoZnIQ/Tjn57ztaqbI/AAAAAAAAATI/MumafC0izE0/s400/chelan-century-me-mike.jpg" /></a></div><br />
This was definitely the most challenging ride I have been on as well as the most beautiful. The weather was sunny clear and in the low 70's and the roads were smooth and wide with little car traffic. One thing that did impressed me was the riders. The group of riders on the 100 mile course were pretty strong riders. I guess it is to be expected when the ride is billed to be 8600 feet of elevation gain but the participants really did seem like a stronger group of riders than the typical Cascade club rides in Seattle. Mike and I got back to the start and waited for the rest of our group. We were getting tired and needed to boogie or risk not finishing so we started <a href="http://www.centuryride.com/index.php?page_id=301" target="_blank">Loop 3</a> together. We met Thomas at the park entrance who was planned to wait for his friends. My legs were getting tired from climbing and the hills really started to hurt, but it was such a perfect day the pain quickly subsided. The third loop took us out of town through the tunnel towards 97 and then north into the mountains and back down to the west side of the lake where we finished the last few miles down hill or on a flat along the lake. Brilliant finish for the third loop. Back at the finish I got a hot dog and cooled my feet in some ice that was thrown on the park lawn by one of the food vendors. A couple beverages in the beer garden and some talk of our glorious day with some of the riders we ran into during the ride wrapped up a perfect century on the east side of the Cascades. I really hope to do this ride again next year and I highly recommend the Chelan Century Challenge to any avid cyclist.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-26840266258186090192011-06-18T11:38:00.001-07:002012-03-29T15:14:42.835-07:00Lake shore trail - Chelan Washington - 2011<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WMBbgqlH4ls/Tfqz_hVJ8DI/AAAAAAAAASw/JahYlITdHkg/s1600/lake-chelan-overview.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WMBbgqlH4ls/Tfqz_hVJ8DI/AAAAAAAAASw/JahYlITdHkg/s400/lake-chelan-overview.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619001388958347314" /></a><br />
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For the second Memorial Day weekend in a row we decided to drive over the pass to Chelan, ride aboard the Lady of the Lake, and hike the 17 miles on the <a href="http://hawgfuel.blogspot.com/2010/06/lake-chelan-lake-shore-trail.html" target="_blank">Lake shore trail</a>. from Prince creek to the tiny town of Stehekin. We stayed at <a href="http://momsmotel.com/" target="_blank">Mom's Montlake Motel</a> Friday night so we could get on the Lady of the Lake at 8:30. This isn't the weekend to go if you want solitude on the trail. The boat was filled to capacity as it was last year. Getting on in Chelan provided us a good choice of seating but when the large group boarded at 25 mile state park, the Lady of the Lake was bulging at the seams. The views one can take in on the upper deck of the boat are incredible. The weather changes on the lake as frequently as it does in the Cascades too, so part of our boat ride was outside in the sun and down below as it rained. Mountain ridges surrounding the lake contain an awe inspiring beauty including water falls and mountain goats. The mountain peaks appeared to have a little more snow this year, and we later found out they actually drained the lake to allow for the greater amount of water coming down the mountains.<br />
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hVJDTFOzBOk/Tfqz_b4j0LI/AAAAAAAAASo/VYKBLcHt_AE/s1600/meadow-creek-approach.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hVJDTFOzBOk/Tfqz_b4j0LI/AAAAAAAAASo/VYKBLcHt_AE/s400/meadow-creek-approach.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619001387496231090" /></a><br />
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The Lady of the Lake schedule showed us arriving at Prince Creek at 11:30 but with the loading of all the people to the boats capacity we didn't arrive until shortly after 12pm. As we exited everyone grabbed a pack and walkde a shore. Then everyone searched for their pack on the beach or found someone carrying it off the boat. We found our packs quickly and with ease and set out on our 2 day 17 mile trek. The year before we had seen a black bear below the trail in a ravine a couple hours after beginning our hike just before Meadow Creek. As clear as that memory was both Ellie and I didn't recognize the corner of the trail we spotted it. There were three signs of bear skat directly on the trail as if a message directed at us by the local bears. What might that message be?<br />
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gAHzJVo8okI/Tfqz-xvIiaI/AAAAAAAAASg/8SnQWMpTfTQ/s1600/meadow-creek-towards-lake.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gAHzJVo8okI/Tfqz-xvIiaI/AAAAAAAAASg/8SnQWMpTfTQ/s400/meadow-creek-towards-lake.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619001376182405538" /></a><br />
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That part of the trail wasn't the only part of the trail we didn't recognize this year. When we arrived at Meadow Creek we were shocked at how much had changed. At the crossing of Meadow Creek which last year was just a stepping stone crossing, the trail was entirely blown out and what we saw was what looked like a ravine created by a very large mud slide. A new trail or a path everyone chose descended the trail towards the washed out stream. We then walked across dirt that field that had been carried down the mountain and found a place to cross the stream and hike up to the camping area of Meadow creek. Meadow creek is of course close to a stream that is a good source of fresh water and there is a simple privy and a wooden shelter. The majority of the campsites are on a slope. In fact it is quite difficult to find a level campsite and you will share a smaller area with other campers. We saw what appeared to be very nice campsites less than a mile past Meadow creek that looked to be flat, private and with great views from one's tent.<br />
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KayWuy6mEZU/Tfqz0I4FYLI/AAAAAAAAASI/8pjb4NMidJw/s1600/stehekin-landing.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KayWuy6mEZU/Tfqz0I4FYLI/AAAAAAAAASI/8pjb4NMidJw/s400/stehekin-landing.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619001193415401650" /></a><br />
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We camped at Meadow Creek and hiked 11 miles the second day to Stehehin where we stayed the night at the lodge and ate dinner at the restaurant. After last year's trip I bought a Gregory Baltoro to replace the REI bag that killed my back, shoulders and desire to backpack again after wearing it for last years Lake shore trail hike. And the investment has been worth every penny. The new pack has made backpacking so much more enjoyable for me. <br />
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We got to Stehekin a little before 6pm, had a beer on the patio by the restaurant, picked up our day packs we left on the Lady of the lake so we could have clean clothing at the end of our hike. Diner at the restaurant was very good once again. I don't recall exactly what we ate but I'll blame that more on being spaced out from hiking all day.<br />
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G5E9WrW5tHI/Tfqz-KoRROI/AAAAAAAAASQ/onPkqhSPnZQ/s1600/chasing-the-kid.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G5E9WrW5tHI/Tfqz-KoRROI/AAAAAAAAASQ/onPkqhSPnZQ/s400/chasing-the-kid.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619001365684634850" /></a><br />
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The next day we rented bikes and rode up the road to the bakery for a giant sticky bun. We continued up the road towards Rainbow falls and saw a momma bear with 3 cubs walking parallel to the road about 30 yards away. We followed them along the road as they continued looking in the brush and under things periodically seeking a bear snack. Another couple on bikes and couple in a truck stopped to watch. It was shortly after this small crowd developed that the bears began to walk deeper into a wooded area behind them. What a site. This was as close as I've been to a bear outside of a zoo and it was quite an experience. On our return to town we described the bears to a few women working at the bakery and they said they knew of that momma bear as well as another one that has cubs living in the area.<br />
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w0Wus_EJ5o8/Tfqz-lBugWI/AAAAAAAAASY/o7tNuF96SyM/s1600/momma-bear.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w0Wus_EJ5o8/Tfqz-lBugWI/AAAAAAAAASY/o7tNuF96SyM/s400/momma-bear.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619001372770730338" /></a><br />
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The day is surreal in it's simplicity. It is almost like we're in the afterlife. There are very few people in this very small town with only 2 roads. Everyone is laid back and friendly and has a smile on their face, and this sensibility becomes exponentially contagious. It's as if the journey to this point transcended the earthly realm into a brief moment of enlightenment where we are completely carefree. Maybe this is the feeling after the perfect lobotomy. It only lasts a few hours as we return the bikes and board the boat back to Chelan and back to the routine of life feeling the glow of being on an adventure.<br />
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View more of the photos from the Lake Shore Trip on <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hawgfuel/sets/72157626866114518/" target="_blank">Hawgfuel flickr</a>.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-7755486228867972862011-06-03T22:11:00.002-07:002011-06-13T21:38:55.344-07:00Ozette Triangle, Olympic National Park<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4hsK6Ft627s/Te2up_kX0UI/AAAAAAAAARQ/KTpslINti5o/s1600/ozette-triangle-dear.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4hsK6Ft627s/Te2up_kX0UI/AAAAAAAAARQ/KTpslINti5o/s400/ozette-triangle-dear.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5615336346862735682" /></a><br /><br />This past spring, and I say past because I am living in the moment and at the moment it is quickly approaching summer. It is the Friday evening before what looks to be a weekend in Seattle in which the day time temperatures are predicted to surpass 75 degrees, and I have to say it is a long time commin. This past spring was fairly cool and wet in the Pacific Northwest. Finding good hikes in the shoulder season can be challenging. We got out to <a href="http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/lake-22" target="_blank">Lake 22</a> for a hike where the second half of the <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hawgfuel/sets/72157626571839372/" target="_blank">trail was covered in snow</a> at the end of April. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i-tfHA6HZdg/Te2uwEb1UxI/AAAAAAAAAR4/6od0HuP0jnY/s1600/ozette-bouy-seastac.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i-tfHA6HZdg/Te2uwEb1UxI/AAAAAAAAAR4/6od0HuP0jnY/s400/ozette-bouy-seastac.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5615336451248313106" /></a><br /><br />We visited weather.com daily for weeks trying to find a good weekend to overnight at Ozette on the Olympic Peninsula. We did an overnight backpack trip to <a href="http://hawgfuel.blogspot.com/2010/05/shi-shi-beach.html" target="_blank">Shi Shi in April in 2010</a> and had hoped we could visit the area around the same time of year once again. The weather forecast was too wet for weeks until the third weekend of May and so we set out to the Olympic Penninsula to backpack out to Cape Alava, camp there the night and backkpack back to the trail head via the Ozette Triangle. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sve6CrNIBkU/Te2urZE9A_I/AAAAAAAAARw/Q_1F9H44qZU/s1600/ozette-triangle-starfish.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sve6CrNIBkU/Te2urZE9A_I/AAAAAAAAARw/Q_1F9H44qZU/s400/ozette-triangle-starfish.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5615336370890146802" /></a><br /><br />We drive out to Port Angeles Olympic park visitor center and get our camping passes some bits of wisdom from the ranger, and a bear cannister (likely better named raccoon cannister on the coast). We had good intentions of starting this trip earlier, but we did get to the trail head to hike out to Cape Alava in time to find a campsite, set up our tent, cook dinner and walk around the beach and watch the sunset.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kZpP_4Syrdw/Te2uqwXBvaI/AAAAAAAAARo/m17D3Xf_J_A/s1600/ozette-triangle-reflective-distant.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kZpP_4Syrdw/Te2uqwXBvaI/AAAAAAAAARo/m17D3Xf_J_A/s400/ozette-triangle-reflective-distant.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5615336359960100258" /></a><br /><br />Previous visits to Cape Alava I hiked north to the mouth of the Ozette river and camped just off the beach in the tree line there and then backpacked the way we came in. If we had time we day hiked up to Point of Arches. Last year we came in and camped near the Point of Arches backpacking into Shi Shi. On this trip we decided to backpack via the Ozette triangle, hiking south to Sand Point and back to the trail head.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m7ccmwJMmNs/Te2uqoJ-cGI/AAAAAAAAARg/9RmuM7yfQoY/s1600/ozette-triangle-grafitti-bouy.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m7ccmwJMmNs/Te2uqoJ-cGI/AAAAAAAAARg/9RmuM7yfQoY/s400/ozette-triangle-grafitti-bouy.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5615336357757874274" /></a><br /><br />We set up camp north of the reservation and ranger building just as the shoreline rounded a corner. We weren't positive these were official campsites in that area based on our conversation with the ranger in Port Angeles. It is always pretty awesome to wake up to the sound of waves coming into the shore line as our tent is just inside the tree line just a couple feet higher than the beach. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C-ho2F2SAl8/Te2uqJZwmKI/AAAAAAAAARY/32v2eOJex3s/s1600/ozette-triangle-distant-seastac.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C-ho2F2SAl8/Te2uqJZwmKI/AAAAAAAAARY/32v2eOJex3s/s400/ozette-triangle-distant-seastac.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5615336349502576802" /></a><br /><br />The beach south of Cape Alava turned out to be more gravel like which required more of the ankles, twisting as we stepped. The trail by Cape Alava that ran parallel to the beach through campsites isn't available to traveling south and hiking on the beach is the only option. The scenery is fantastic of course. Many sea stacks, critters and amazing sky to look at. There were more trees washed onto shore and more that were perpendicular to our path which required us to limbo under, climb over or walk around with our backpacks which made the 3 mile hike to Sand Point a little bit more challenging than expected. We didn't see any trail in inside the tree line and didn't see any campsites until we got to the trail head leading us back to the ranger station and parking lot.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yzMQWIo3eIo/TfYskLZztMI/AAAAAAAAASA/TYZy3FPigWQ/s1600/ozette-sunset.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yzMQWIo3eIo/TfYskLZztMI/AAAAAAAAASA/TYZy3FPigWQ/s400/ozette-sunset.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5617726585239221442" /></a><br /><br /> The beach to the north of Cape Alava is the way to go. I won't bother with this part of the beach in the future. The hike back from the beach provided much more wooden board walk than the hike to the Cape Alava. Much of the boardwalk appeared older and more weathered and there wasn't evidence of trail maintenance the we experienced on the northern part of the triangle. Fantastic time on the coast once again. Perfect place to decompress and take in the wonder of the northwest coast. A great shoulder season hike and a pretty easy first backpacking trip for the season.<br /><br />See gallery of trip photos to <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hawgfuel/sets/72157626957613918/" target="_blank" >Ozette Triangle</a>.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-38660842938813388932011-05-15T16:03:00.003-07:002012-04-02T14:47:22.659-07:00Fruita Co. Fat Tire FestivalThe last weekend of April I flew down to Colorado to meet my old friend Art. He invited me to join him and a group of friends for a weekend of camping and mountain biking in the high desert outside of Fruita Colorado just east of Utah. I had never gone mountain biking in that part of the country but always wanted to when seeing photos of Moab and the like. So add to the fact that New Belgium Brewing co. was holding their Fat Tire Festival that same weekend I saw a winning combo. Bikes, Beer and a fun group of folks getting having fun in the desert.<br />
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ij1t-p7ifPc/TdBc31roMfI/AAAAAAAAAQE/VqRUHWLZZ9w/s1600/fruita-canyon.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ij1t-p7ifPc/TdBc31roMfI/AAAAAAAAAQE/VqRUHWLZZ9w/s400/fruita-canyon.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5607083650448896498" /></a><br />
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The Fat Tire Festival attracted all kinds of mountain bike vendors with demo bikes, but I wasn't sure how long I could ride one of the demo bikes or what would be available so I secured a rental before making the trip. I ride a Gary Fisher Tessajara with a Marzocchi Bomber with a manual lockout when I'm home. Fun bike but surely not anything to brag about. So when I called <a href="http://otefruita.com/" target="_blank">Over the Edge Sports</a> I decided to get a bike that could handle the bigger drops I expected on the <a href="http://otefruita.com/trails/" target="_blank">trails</a> around Fruita. So in a moment of weekness and the desire to spoil myself a little bit I elected to rent the Ibis Mojo HD, a beautifully sculpted carbon fiber full suspension bike with 6 inches of travel up front and in da rear.<br />
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y30ZoCcgcdw/TdBifKBDpuI/AAAAAAAAAQs/R-VFw4Vxxps/s1600/ibis_mojo_hd_complete.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 308px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y30ZoCcgcdw/TdBifKBDpuI/AAAAAAAAAQs/R-VFw4Vxxps/s400/ibis_mojo_hd_complete.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5607089823480522466" /></a><br />
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The Ibis was an exceptional bike and it was the envy of our 13 member group. The only problem was I really didn't need that much bike. I didn't use the bike to the extent that it could be used as I only had a weekend to get used to the different style of bike and different style of trails and because we were riding over hard rock or a few feet from the edge of a canyon I really wasn't pushing the envelope, but it was still a hell of a lot of fun! We hit part of the Kokopelli trail system, one named Zippty doo dah, and Kessel run were the few trail names I can recall. <br />
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N84osM64aC8/TdB3dEmnlOI/AAAAAAAAAQ0/gfq4lunC_N0/s1600/fruita-mountain-biking-3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N84osM64aC8/TdB3dEmnlOI/AAAAAAAAAQ0/gfq4lunC_N0/s400/fruita-mountain-biking-3.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5607112877411898594" /></a><br />
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Friday we got to Fruita late in the afternoon and the weather was getting colder and windy. We did the Kessel run and packed the bikes up to set up camp in the Colorado National Monument. Expensive first day of mountain biking renting the Ibis and only getting 30 minutes of biking in. The next day we'll make up for it.<br />
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ig4vm2DSen8/TdBf1DTil8I/AAAAAAAAAQk/PkMQYJXT6m8/s1600/fruita-mountain-biking-staircase.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ig4vm2DSen8/TdBf1DTil8I/AAAAAAAAAQk/PkMQYJXT6m8/s400/fruita-mountain-biking-staircase.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5607086901101238210" /></a><br />
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Saturday to begin the Kokopelli trail we descended a boulder stair case. For the human mountain biker or the ones that weren't mentally challenged this was a hike a bike section. One rider in our party did decide to ride this descent and then quickly tested the integrity of his neck and helmet as endoed and landed head first. This was basically 20 minutes into our ride and could have been a real downer early in our ride, but his neck was spring loaded and his helmet was strong and he suffered only a sore neck before descending the staircase like the rest of us. Throughout the rest of the day it seemed like each of us would take turns crashing and surviving to tell about it. After coming around a corner to our group stopped, eye balling a rock step around a switchback at the bottom of a short descent. The first few guys rode down and up on the rock step that was a foot and a half or so high but with the switch back there was little space to generate momentum. I went and didn't have enough of the momentum I told myself I needed to manual over the rock and shift my weight and get the rest of the bike over. The front wheel went over, the bash guard bashed into the rock and I slowly fell on my side and taking home a souvenir sore elbow and wrist for the next week. It was on one of the trails where we rode along the edge of a canyon overlooking a river and I was only a couple feet from the edge where I fell. The blinders I had been wearing up to that point fell away and I was a bit more timid on obstacles near cliff edges which certainly must be instinctual self preservation but takes some of the riders edge off when mountain biking.<br />
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HOwPg0rp80I/TdBc4Ne3I9I/AAAAAAAAAQM/V2LwG52iw4s/s1600/fruita-moutain-bikers-1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HOwPg0rp80I/TdBc4Ne3I9I/AAAAAAAAAQM/V2LwG52iw4s/s400/fruita-moutain-bikers-1.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5607083656837800914" /></a><br />
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The landscape and the trails were fantastic. We rode all afternoon. I would have taken more photos but I didn't want to hold up our group. We started with 13 and towards the end of the day parts of our group headed back to the cars. It was sunny and in the high 50's. When we got back to the cars we cracked open some great Colorado beers and the wind kicked up and it began to snow. Yes the weather changed quickly out there. We returned to our campsite after dropping off my wicked awesome mt. bike of which I used about 10% of it's potential. At the bike shop they were playing video of people mountain biking the Kokopelli trail much more successfully than us and it was a kick to see how these riders effortlessly flew over the rocky obstacles. Back to the campsite for a big shin dig of great food and yummy brews hanging out around the charcoals of one of the larger stoves trying to keep warm in the 30 degree lows.<br />
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nj91EAEC2ak/TdBc3oewk5I/AAAAAAAAAP8/2IKxPcB0qxM/s1600/fruita-camp-view1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nj91EAEC2ak/TdBc3oewk5I/AAAAAAAAAP8/2IKxPcB0qxM/s400/fruita-camp-view1.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5607083646905258898" /></a><br />
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A few of our group headed back home the next morning but a few of us decided to get a a couple more hours of mountain biking in on Sunday. I only reserved the Ibis for 2 days and thought I would try and get a demo bike for a couple hours. Two guys riding with us had $3000 demo bikes until 4pm Saturday and when we were in town we saw many vendors and trailers full of bikes one could borrow for the afternoon in exchange for some key credit card digits in case one didn't return with the bike. We got into Fruita and the 2 block area of downtown that was jumping with the Fat Tire festival Friday and Saturday seemed like a ghost town with just memories of the bustling mountain bike community before. All but one vendor was gone and he was packing up his trailer. The carnival had left town but I wanted to see more of the wonder. I stopped at the bike shop where I rented my Mojo and couldn't get a half day rental so I went around the corner to <a href="http://single-tracks.com/" target="_blank">Single Tracks</a> to see what they had to offer as I wasn't interested in spending $60 for a couple hours of biking if I could help but I couldn't leave town without another visit to some of the sweet trails the area had to offer. <br />
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CDN7hKnBzSs/TdB6zqZBjHI/AAAAAAAAARE/o5w_1moD0TE/s1600/jamis_dakarxct2_11_m.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 234px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CDN7hKnBzSs/TdB6zqZBjHI/AAAAAAAAARE/o5w_1moD0TE/s400/jamis_dakarxct2_11_m.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5607116564047432818" /></a><br />
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As luck would have it the Jamis vendor had a few bikes at Single Tracks and I was able to ride and demo a <a href="http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebikes/fullsuspension/dakarxct/11_dakarxct2.html">Jamis Dakar XCT 2</a> for the afternoon.. We set out and finished Sunday riding Zippity doo dah. I really liked the Jamis more. I think the geometry was a little more fitting for me and I was able to move the front of the bike around on this aluminum frame better than I was able to do with the Ibis, which made for a more fun day on the trails as I could go over obstacles more like I was accustomed to, or perhaps the third day I was just starting to get used to riding a full suspension bike.<br />
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m6542beBXMA/TdB3dbVwRHI/AAAAAAAAAQ8/_fKc0VgsqTM/s1600/fruita-mountain-biking-campview.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m6542beBXMA/TdB3dbVwRHI/AAAAAAAAAQ8/_fKc0VgsqTM/s400/fruita-mountain-biking-campview.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5607112883515180146" /></a><br />
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Zippity doo dah was not next to a high canyon cliff but was made up of gravel like ridges in a desert area. The tops of the ridges were narrow but were not nearly as high as the canyon trails the day before. This trail had a definite roller coaster quality to it and was a lot of fun. There was a section with a series of 8 foot steep downhills that ascended as fast as we descended shooting you and the bike up to the top effortlessly with glee. There was a blind hair pin turn on a corner along one ridge on the narrow single track that everyone navigated but I couldn't help but feel my heart race as I saw how I could have ridden of the ridge. Then the roller coaster began with steep climbs and screaming descents we raced back to the cars, packed it all up, said good byes and headed back to Boulder and back to Seattle the next day. It was a great weekend of mountain biking with a great group of folks. Hope to come back again soon. It was only my third time but boy I love biking in Colorado.<br />
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<p>View the Hawgfuel <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hawgfuel/sets/72157626657914180/with/5692582070/" target="_blank">flickr gallery</a> of the Fruita trip.</p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-76986257608993352362011-05-01T20:42:00.000-07:002011-05-02T12:03:18.254-07:00Tambopata River, Peru AmazonWe flew into <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_Maldonado" target="_blank">Puerto Maldonado</a> and felt the temperature change and humidity immediately. We were now at a much lower elevation and a much warmer climate than Cusco. Our guides from the <a href="http://perunature.com/" target="_blank">Posado Lodge</a> greeted us at the airport and our group of new arrivals traveled by bus to the lodge office where we paired down our baggage for the boat ride and met some of the other tourists we traveled with during our stay in the jungle. Once everyone arrived from the airport we got back on the buses and made the trek to the Tambopata river along a rather muddy road. After the 45 minute bus ride we had another two hours on the boat to our lodge. After receiving an introduction to the facilities and finding boots we would wear on all our future hikes during our stay we began our first trek into the jungle to a canopy tower where we looked over the tree tops watched macaws, parrots and parakeets.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M9cnDBbNaeU/Tb4odYnME_I/AAAAAAAAAPM/ru2wuO_OKP4/s1600/5510699688_0f6337a3e9_z.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M9cnDBbNaeU/Tb4odYnME_I/AAAAAAAAAPM/ru2wuO_OKP4/s400/5510699688_0f6337a3e9_z.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601959471783613426" /></a><br /><br />The next day we awoke early for one of the great breakfasts we would have each day, put on our rubber boots, back on the boat and out to Oxbow Lake. It is at Oxbow lake where we would see our first caman, river otters and a number of birds whose names escape me.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o1n5g3F4QRM/Tb4omrFKe3I/AAAAAAAAAPU/eP7QYc6cHng/s1600/5510704528_5161e509d1_z.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o1n5g3F4QRM/Tb4omrFKe3I/AAAAAAAAAPU/eP7QYc6cHng/s400/5510704528_5161e509d1_z.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601959631359998834" /></a><br /><br />The visit to the lake included a stop where we would fish for piranhas that we would catch and release. This made for quite an ice breaker for everyone on the boat and made for some good laughs.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yQz5jxsAWf0/Tb4ocfksrxI/AAAAAAAAAOs/GXVprFp9qSQ/s1600/5510104447_c67670160b_z.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 226px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yQz5jxsAWf0/Tb4ocfksrxI/AAAAAAAAAOs/GXVprFp9qSQ/s400/5510104447_c67670160b_z.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601959456472346386" /></a><br /><br />Much of the activities during our stay at Posada Amazonas included hiking through the jungle with the goal of seeing some critters. One such visit was to the clay lick where birds like macaws, parrots and parakeets would go to eat the clay to aid the digestion of the toxic leaves they would eat on a daily basis. This clay lick was a small cliff of exposed clay along the river. The clay lick also makes for a social destination for the birds and many would find their life long mate here. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_D5ePnFzDOM/Tb4om93uaWI/AAAAAAAAAPc/nXzZZHzmae4/s1600/5510713756_1dc5c06efe_z.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_D5ePnFzDOM/Tb4om93uaWI/AAAAAAAAAPc/nXzZZHzmae4/s400/5510713756_1dc5c06efe_z.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601959636403906914" /></a><br /><br />When we arrived at the clay lick we sat behind the blind that the lodge had built so we could watch the birds without scaring them off. We didn't see any birds the first day but our disappointment quickly disappeared on our hike back to the lodge when we watched a troupe of nearly 60 spider monkeys travel along the tree tops across our path. I truly had no idea how many monkeys there were, but our guide who worked in the amazon as a guide for the past 4 years was trained in observing the critters in the jungle in many ways and provided that number 60 to the group. After taking many photos and the monkeys troupe continuing to move like a passing parade, one of the spider monkeys fell from the treetops just 6 feet from us. He shook it off and ran up a nearby tree to join in the the group in seconds.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CA9yGAi_IPw/Tb4odMKUwII/AAAAAAAAAPE/W7Ti8ffyvF0/s1600/5510120635_9417f8a048_z.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CA9yGAi_IPw/Tb4odMKUwII/AAAAAAAAAPE/W7Ti8ffyvF0/s400/5510120635_9417f8a048_z.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601959468441321602" /></a><br /><br />During our 3 night 4 day stay in the Amazon we saw all 5 of the species monkeys we could possibly see. No jaguar sitings but those siting we were told are more likely in the summer when the river level is down and the jaguars are digging up turtle eggs along the river side. One morning we did see an armadillo from the wooden walk way as we went to breakfast. All the rooms had 3 walls with the fourth wall facing the jungle. While we didn't have a good view of any critters from our room, we did hear many and occasionally got a glimpse of a monkey or saw the rustling branches and leaves as they traveled through the trees. There was the bat who lived in the rafters that we could hear at times at night, and there was terrantilla that lived in the rafters of one of the common rooms.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1HAVJDqULDc/Tb4oc8AhffI/AAAAAAAAAO8/SsNwnssakCU/s1600/5510118597_5c368de588_z.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1HAVJDqULDc/Tb4oc8AhffI/AAAAAAAAAO8/SsNwnssakCU/s400/5510118597_5c368de588_z.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601959464105246194" /></a><br /><br />We never did see any birds at the two clay licks we visited. But the one occasion we heard a dozen or more in the tree tops before being spooked by something instead of coming down for to the clay lick. After another failed opportunity to see the clay lick in action we did see a family of howler monkeys eating leaves in the tree tops on our return the lodge. I never did witness the spooky howl of the howler monkeys, but was told the wooshing sound of a high flying jet was really a group of howler monkeys.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CLvCVmexMj8/Tb4ocmpDXaI/AAAAAAAAAO0/THdvZlRKXEc/s1600/5510110855_9c3e1ac062_z.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CLvCVmexMj8/Tb4ocmpDXaI/AAAAAAAAAO0/THdvZlRKXEc/s400/5510110855_9c3e1ac062_z.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601959458369658274" /></a><br /><br />Despite our rooms being open to the jungle the bugs were few. There were more mosquitos in the dinning area but there was more light and more fresh blood to attract them. Our guide had told us that incidences of yellow fever and malaria had not been reported in the jungle for a couple years but that there had been reports in the jungle to the north near Iquitos. We did get nearly eaten alive by mosquitos when we visited the local shaman where we were shown many of the plants the shaman used to create medicine. Completely hosed down with bug repellent and wearing our rain<br />jackets completely zipped up the mosquitos still came for blood. Meanwhile the shaman wearing a t-shirt and shorts occasionally shooed away an one of these little predators. At the end of the garden tour of medicinal plants we were offered some of this medicine in the form of an alcoholic shot. MMM home made hooch. Not bad stuff but for the record nothing to send us on a vision quest.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uVZR7BCr6Ko/Tb7_ESKZI4I/AAAAAAAAAPs/nZeYyiftXYU/s1600/ellie-posada-boat.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 226px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uVZR7BCr6Ko/Tb7_ESKZI4I/AAAAAAAAAPs/nZeYyiftXYU/s400/ellie-posada-boat.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5602195435555464066" /></a><br /><br />We had a lot of fun in the Amazon. Before we even got on the boat for our departure on the fourth day, we thought we would recommend going as deep into the jungle and stay as long as you can because it is really a great experience.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-36921558075737092792011-04-24T20:59:00.001-07:002012-01-26T11:20:32.007-08:00OllantaytamboOllantaytambo turned out to be somewhat of a surprise in that we originally thought of it as a brief stop over between Cusco and Aguas Calientes. We found it to be much more interesting than just a stop over and possibly in part because of our stay at El Albergue although I'm sure there are other incredibly wonderful places to spend the night and eat in town. <br />
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v-SbwMH0QWI/TbTzeHrV3GI/AAAAAAAAAOY/rwUKGdxUo88/s1600/ollyantaytambo-hotel.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v-SbwMH0QWI/TbTzeHrV3GI/AAAAAAAAAOY/rwUKGdxUo88/s400/ollyantaytambo-hotel.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599367935510830178" /></a><br />
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Our first encounter with Ollantaytambo provided a perspective that it was an exceptionally small town with limited amenities but we scratched the surface of what looked to be many more options. We enjoyed our stay at El Albergue the first night so much we stayed a second night. And why not as we were planning on returning to Cusco before flying to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_Maldonado">Puerto Maldonado</a> for 4 days in the Amazon.<br />
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nBWPlt7437w/TbTxyh4Ey-I/AAAAAAAAAOI/BQ-WKVHSRNQ/s1600/chefview.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 225px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nBWPlt7437w/TbTxyh4Ey-I/AAAAAAAAAOI/BQ-WKVHSRNQ/s400/chefview.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599366087117687778" /></a><br />
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In addition to El Albergue possessing a beautiful white plaster walls and black doors and shutters providing an old world charm, it was incredibly peaceful despite being at the train station. But the greatest part was the restaurant in the hotel. One of our favorite dinners during our time in Peru was at this restaurant. And of course their daily breakfast of eggs, toast, fresh fruit and freshly squeezed juice was somehow better than that same breakfast we had nearly every day during our visit.<br />
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0pFnTI1CEnQ/TbTyXLkAdqI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/8z_u0lF88fg/s1600/ollyantaytambo-graneries-inside.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0pFnTI1CEnQ/TbTyXLkAdqI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/8z_u0lF88fg/s400/ollyantaytambo-graneries-inside.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599366716783097506" /></a><br />
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The next day we hiked up the trail that to see the graineries we viewed during our previous visit but from across the valley at the Inca archeology site. This time we got an up close view of the grainery walls and this time without the fee or crowds. The hike provided more great views of the valley and the surrounding ridges. The graineries were built with adobe and stone walls and we saw tools used to maintain these graineries.<br />
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8un_D4ygSC0/TbTxyJdnZ0I/AAAAAAAAAN4/5ACjug6OOf8/s1600/ollyantaytambo-cycle-cabs.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8un_D4ygSC0/TbTxyJdnZ0I/AAAAAAAAAN4/5ACjug6OOf8/s400/ollyantaytambo-cycle-cabs.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599366080564258626" /></a><br />
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We ate lunch in town. I had alpaca quesadillas as I was really enjoying this local meat. While were leaving we struck up a conversation with a young guy with a Boston Red Sox hat. Turned out he was an American working in Ollyantaytambo as a mountain biking guide. Wow. Very Cool. Living the dream. We went to the hostel where his outdoor adventure tourism company worked through and spoke with three American women who were leaving town after a three day mountain biking trip to Matchu Picchu guided buy the Red Sox fan we just met. He gave me his card as the company also ran biking tours out of Cusco and I was excited at the prospect of doing some mountain biking in the Cusco area when we returned from the Amazon.<br />
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qcAYzDzVyU0/TbTxx_YhX4I/AAAAAAAAANo/mxyEiorXFq8/s1600/ollyantaytambo-street-to-station.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qcAYzDzVyU0/TbTxx_YhX4I/AAAAAAAAANo/mxyEiorXFq8/s400/ollyantaytambo-street-to-station.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599366077858537346" /></a><br />
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We returned to Cusco via cab. We found a cab driver in the town square and drove through an incredibly beautiful country side of farmlands surrounded by large mountain ridges. I had my camera pointed out the window much of the ride and we stopped a couple times for photos. Back in Cusco we shopped for a few items we thought we would need in the Amazon and stayed at the very charming Andenes al Cielo in San Blas. Next adventure, the Amazon.<br />
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See the rest of the photos I took of Ollantaytambo in my <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hawgfuel/sets/72157626166940241/" target="_blank">flickr gallery</a>.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2739514664942964687.post-42646088501623219962011-03-23T11:22:00.000-07:002011-03-23T18:34:19.757-07:00Matchu Picchu, PeruWe stayed in room with a private bath in a hostel near the train station in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aguascalientes">Aguascalientes</a>. It was nice and clean but pretty small for $70, but we are now walking distance from the early morning bus and our choices are few. We cleaned up and got ready for the next day and were happy to see Padre de Familia in English (otherwise known as the Family Guy) before getting a few hours of sleep. One of the great things about all the hotels we stayed at was the front door was always locked and there was always someone at the front desk, as well as someone to make coffee, scrambled eggs and set out some bread, jam and freshly squeezed juice. And at 4:45 the morning we set out for Matchu Picchu was no exception. No one else was up but Ellie and I and the guy at the front desk. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6g_YrZappzI/TYo8ndvnWII/AAAAAAAAANQ/LOAeCJ2RMIA/s1600/matchu-picchu-early-morning.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6g_YrZappzI/TYo8ndvnWII/AAAAAAAAANQ/LOAeCJ2RMIA/s400/matchu-picchu-early-morning.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5587344936403425410" /></a><br /><br />Being the rainy season and with the recent mud slides we may have been the ones in the place. We had a quick breakfast and the guy at the desk was generous enough to guide us past the train station and market across the river to the bus station. We had talked about getting a guide for Matchu Picchu but had not secured one before arriving. As luck would have it we got in line to board the bus and began talking with a gentleman in front of us named Alain, (which is the French version of my first name) who turned out to be a guide looking for tourists to show Matchu Picchu. Standing in the rain we negotiated a price which would require at least another couple to make it worth Alain's time. As we talked to our guide someone from the first bus waved us forward and the three of us boarded and took the last three seats. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BK403wjOBVE/TYo7uH3am0I/AAAAAAAAAM4/h3f1AAbFOkI/s1600/matchu-picchu-clouds2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BK403wjOBVE/TYo7uH3am0I/AAAAAAAAAM4/h3f1AAbFOkI/s400/matchu-picchu-clouds2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5587343951278021442" /></a><br /><br />The drive up the muddy switchbacks to Matchu Picchu takes about 30 minutes. The road is wide enough for two buses side by side but as we drive up the switchbacks the driver takes the center of the road and only moves aside when another bus approaches from the other direction. We encounter another bus more than once and I'm glad I didn't have a window seat to see the drop off or the short distance of the bus tires from the edge of the road. We arrive at the top at the entrance to the park. This is one of the very few places where there is no one trying to sell you something. No little girls in traditional garb holding baby lamas asking if you would like to take their photo for a few soles. No young artists with a portfolio of water colors showing cliche subject matter of the tourist sites we all were there to see, and no one to sell cheap rain ponchos which would have sold pretty well as there were still many people unprepaired for the constant rain we would experience for the next 2 hours. But when you're 23, living in dorm like hostels for a month you gotta save your beer money.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-am-0VvPbaVs/TYo7ugDP0zI/AAAAAAAAANI/IXGiqV-jgmc/s1600/matchu-picchu-sun-observation.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-am-0VvPbaVs/TYo7ugDP0zI/AAAAAAAAANI/IXGiqV-jgmc/s400/matchu-picchu-sun-observation.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5587343957770097458" /></a><br /><div style="width:300px;font-size:small;margin:auto;">^ Looking up at the Temple of the Sun</div><br /><br /><br />Our guide finds another couple to join our little tour and we enter the park. Not long after Alain begins telling us about the tour another couple joins our group saving everyone a couple more bucks. The rain doesn't let up and our guide takes us to one of the few buildings with a refurbished roof and we stay dry as Alain explains how <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machu_Picchu">Matchu Picchu</a> was discovered, cleared of the over grown vegetation and turned into a tourist destination. The rain began to let up a little and our group ventured out to the different buildings and Alain told us more of the history of the Incas and what they did once upon a time in this city that was never discovered by the Spanish. Our guide speaks English pretty well and appears very proud of the Inca history. At one point when he is describing theories of how the stones were brought up the mountain I asked if the Incas used slave labor as I knew this was something many other empires did in their history. I wasn't sure if he was uncomfortable with that subject or if it was because he had to respond off script in English. Apparently the Incas absorbed many tribes in South America back in their day and that is how they grew. Conquer and absorb. According to Alain there was one tribe that would not become Inca, and continued to fight and fight. It was this tribe the Incas made slaves of and sent tens of thousands to mine Inca gold, but no slaves were used to build their cities.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gjPxk104V2U/TYo7uTCCO_I/AAAAAAAAANA/O4BP_npWMko/s1600/matchu-picchu-lama-tourist.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gjPxk104V2U/TYo7uTCCO_I/AAAAAAAAANA/O4BP_npWMko/s400/matchu-picchu-lama-tourist.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5587343954275351538" /></a><br /><br />Alain ended our tour at a building with a roof by the entrance to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huayna_Picchu">Huayna Picchu</a>. This is the mountain seen in the background of many photos of Matchu Picchu. Likely the photo was taken high above the city at the guard tower. Huayna Picchu is 1,180 foot hike up Inca rock stairs. Alain recommended going at 10am in order to get the best view of Matchu Picchu. The other 4 in our group chose to go up earlier and Ellie and I ventured around some of the buildings we did not view in our tour. When 10 am approached we got in line, signed our names and made the climb up Huayna Picchu. The rain had stopped, the clouds kept rising and disappearing and the sun was beginning to shine. Alain had encouraged everyone that the hike up the mountain was just some rolling path that was fairly easy. Maybe if you hike around these mountains every day like the Inca. The beginning of the path was pretty easy but once we crossed the saddle to begin hiking up the stone stairs the hike became pretty steep and the drop off the side of the trail was pretty steep as well. When we got to the top there was another archeological site including some terraced farming plots a few buildings and a great lookout overlooking Matchu Picchu the Temple of the Moon, the road to the top and the river below. It had been raining the first couple hours of the morning. But the rain had since stopped and for about 40 minutes while we were at Huayna Picchu the clouds broke the sun came out and the entirety of Matchu Picchu was revealed! This was definitely one of those kick ass moments. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jS9IhdBY6Wc/TYo8niMKzYI/AAAAAAAAANY/mS8dRYOcQsw/s1600/matchu-picchu-wayna-view.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jS9IhdBY6Wc/TYo8niMKzYI/AAAAAAAAANY/mS8dRYOcQsw/s400/matchu-picchu-wayna-view.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5587344937596931458" /></a><br /><br />We hiked back down to Matchu Picchu and were really feeling the hike in our legs. Just before reaching the park we caught up with our Canadian friends Ryan and Jordan and were glad to know that we weren't the only ones finding the hike to be challenging. By the time we returned to Matchu Picchu it was early afternoon. It was much dryer but cloudy compared to when we looked down from Huayna Picchu and it appeared to be many more tourists in the park. Many larger groups being guided through the park and many more tourists photographing one another at notable points of interest as if they were Hiram Bingham himself discovering it for the first time. We still had more to see and so we hiked up to the guard tower and looked into the Temple of the Sun from above as it was roped off from anyone entering. Having our fill of hiking and bumping elbows with other tourist we returned to the entrance to take a bus back down the mountain. We couldn't imagine how many tourists would be crawling over these old stones during the high season and were glad we made it despite mud slides during the rainy season despite another twisty bus ride down the muddy road. I would definitely recommend going to Matchu Picchu early in the morning as the (older and slower) day trekers filled the park in the afternoon. One such older Dutch gentleman shooed me away in spanish as I was taking a photo at the guard tower. He was in his Hiram Bingham pose as he just discovered the lost Inca city.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ECgzT05sf1s/TYpO5Bnr7dI/AAAAAAAAANg/P0zkV6LSzOc/s1600/matchu-picchu-guard-tower-view.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ECgzT05sf1s/TYpO5Bnr7dI/AAAAAAAAANg/P0zkV6LSzOc/s400/matchu-picchu-guard-tower-view.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5587365029300923858" /></a><br /><br />Back in Aguascaliente we had quite an appetite. Young men in the main square gave us the hard sell on their restaurants and some of them had very few patrons. We walked a couple blocks off the main square and found cheaper food, with local patrons and now hard sell. Here we had more aquinas soup and the best chicken enchiladas on our trip and spoke with a couple from Finland. We returned to the train station. Sat on the floor and waited for our train. The English announcements in thick Spanish accents were not much easier to interpret than the Spanish announcements over the p.a. The time for us to board our train came and went and there was no announcement regarding it's departure. We asked a couple station workers and they had no information whether it had arrived yet. We spoke with a tourist who was wishing he had spent more time at Matchu Picchu but instead had been drinking beer waiting for his train for 3 hours. It seemed that our train may be delayed or cancelled and we weren't real keen on staying another night. Then we asked a third station employee and the rushed us outside, around to the far tracks where a train sat with only a couple passenger cars. We got on the train, secured our backpacks and the train began moving minutes after we took our seats. Quite a day for good timing. We watched the raging Urubamba river just a few meters from the tracks as we returned to Ollyantaytambo for the night.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07115722251212913242noreply@blogger.com1